Can’t feel the cold air from your Samsung refrigerator? It’s an inconvenience that could eventually cause more problems for your food and for yourself.
Don’t worry, we’re here to help you with instructions to get your refrigerator working smoothly in no time.
Most of the troubleshooting guides are easy enough to do on your own – just carefully follow our tips and everything should be fine. Each of our solutions and diagnostic tests only takes a maximum of 5 steps and 30 minutes of your time.
Feel free to ask for further help, especially if you find difficulty in trying out any of the solutions we’ll be providing in this article.
Why is my Samsung refrigerator not cooling?
Your Samsung refrigerator isn’t cooling because of inappropriate settings or faulty refrigerator components.
It’s possible that your refrigerator is in a poor location or has high temperature settings. There may also be defects with the door seals, compressor, fan motors, thermistor, and thermostat.
These are easily addressed by taking quick and proper measures in your refrigerator’s maintenance.
Inappropriate settings and arrangements can cause your refrigerator to not cool properly. Here are the numerous settings and arrangements that may be causing the problem for your refrigerator:
- Improperly Plugged Refrigerator
- Poor Refrigerator Location
- Tightly Packed Refrigerator Contents
- High Temperature Settings
- Activated Demo Mode
These problems are the easiest ones to fix and work on. It only takes troubleshooting your refrigerator’s settings and some physical rearrangements of the fridge and its contents to find the optimal setup for proper cooling.
Faulty refrigerator components are the more complex reasons for it not cooling properly. Here are some culprits that you may need to check:
- Damaged Door Seals
- Dirty Condenser Coils
- Faulty Compressor
- Refrigerant Leak in the System
- Restricted Filter Drier
- Faulty Fan Motors
- Broken or Stuck Air Damper Control Assembly
- Defective Control Board
- Faulty Start Relay
- Faulty Thermistor and/or Thermostat
These problems are more difficult to fix and will require more resources. Most will likely need professional help.
We’ve listed the causes and solutions for each one of them to help you get started.
| Cause | Solution |
| Improperly Plugged Refrigerator | Make sure that the refrigerator is tightly plugged all the way through and the socket is not loose. |
| Poor Refrigerator Location | Relocate your refrigerator to somewhere with no direct sunlight and make sure that there is at least 1 inch of space between the refrigerator and the walls. |
| Tightly Packed Refrigerator Contents | Rearrange your refrigerator’s contents. Make use of all the different compartments and shelves – put products in their designated locations for optimal cooling and airflow. |
| High Temperature Settings | The ideal temperature setting should be 38°F. Any higher could be too warm to store food properly. You can adjust the temperature through the control panel of the refrigerator. Pressing on the “Fridge” indicator will allow you to cycle through different temperatures. |
| Activated Demo Mode | To disable Demo Mode for most Samsung refrigerators, hold the ENERGY SAVER and POWER FREEZE/FREEZER buttons simultaneously until you hear a chime. Some models may use a different method, so if this doesn’t work for you, it is best to refer to your user manual for the correct button inputs. |
| Damaged Door Seals | Faulty reed switches need to be replaced with new ones. To check if yours need replacing, you can test them by placing magnets in front of the switches. If the refrigerator does not respond to the magnets (e.g. the interior lights are still lit up), then the switches are faulty and need to be replaced. The door gasket is the rubber seal of your refrigerator doors. Inspect it for any dirt buildup or damage. Clean the gasket with a soap-water formula. If you find damage in the gasket, it needs to be replaced. |
| Dirty Condenser Coils | Use a vacuum cleaner and crevice tool to rid the dust from the coils. If the coils are still grimy, use a cloth and soap-water solution to clean them. |
| Faulty Compressor | Inspect the wiring and tubing of the compressor for any visible defects. Be very careful as the electrical components are sensitive and there is a risk of shock. If there are any defects, contact a professional to repair or replace the compressor. |
| Refrigerant Leak in the System | Determine if there is a leak by checking the condenser coils of your refrigerator and the tubes connected to it. If there is a leak, there should be moist and/or frosted parts on the coils and tubes. Contact a professional to repair the leak. Dealing with refrigerant is dangerous for those unfamiliar with it. |
| Restricted Filter Drier | Diagnose if the filter drier is restricted – this is when the temperature of the compressor and condenser fan becomes too warm. Replacing the filter dryer requires professional assistance. |
| Faulty Fan Motors | There are two different fan motors – the condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor. Condenser Fan Motor:You can perform a continuity test on the condenser fan motor with a multimeter to diagnose it. Locate it at the bottom compartment of your refrigerator and disconnect the wiring to detach it from the condenser. Replace the condenser fan if you find it to be faulty and malfunctioning. Evaporator Fan Motor:The evaporator fan motor is located at the back of the freezer/refrigerator compartment. Remove the cover of the compartment and disconnect the fan from the electronics. You can perform a continuity test using a multimeter to confirm if the fan is faulty or not. If found to be defective, replace the fan with a new one. You should call a professional for help replacing the fans if you find it difficult to do so. |
| Broken or Stuck Air Damper Control Assembly | Check the air damper and flap it by hand to see if it can move without difficulty. If it has difficulty moving, then it is due for replacement. |
| Defective Control Board | The control board is the most expensive and delicate part of your refrigerator. If it’s defective, it’s better to be safe and call professional help. |
| Faulty Start Relay | Disconnect the start relay from the compressor and wiring to test it for continuity using a multimeter. If you find the start relay to be faulty, you need to replace it with a new one. |
| Faulty Thermistor and/or Thermostat | Test the thermistor and thermostat for continuity i.e. if the temperature changes, then the settings should adjust to it. If either one doesn’t have continuity, a replacement is needed. |
| Quick Note: If you are unsure of which brand/type of specific parts you need for a replacement, you can easily check your user manual to verify each part’s model number. Your refrigerator’s serial number can also help you identify which exact parts you need. |
Improperly Plugged Refrigerator
Your refrigerator needs to have a constant supply of electric power to function properly. The most simple cause of your refrigerator not cooling properly is that it isn’t plugged into the outlet.
This makes it so that your refrigerator is not receiving enough power to maintain most of its functions. Not to mention, a refrigerator not plugged properly also poses more hazards than just not cooling.
Solution: Secure the plug of your refrigerator and make sure that it is plugged tightly into the outlet. Check if the wires are bent or tangled as well to preserve the integrity of the refrigerator.
Poor Refrigerator Location
The location of your refrigerator matters when it tries to perform most of its functions. The environment around it can influence how much more effort it needs to exert to work properly.
An area without direct sunlight is ideal for the refrigerator to maintain its set internal temperature.
This is because the heat from direct sunlight increases the internal temperature of the refrigerator and the workload of its components, which can cause the condenser, fan motors, and condenser coils to wear down faster.
It’s also important to give it enough space between the walls to avoid overheating.
The residual heat from the refrigerator needs ample space to disperse so that the heat won’t be absorbed back into the refrigerator’s system. Your walls can also be the source of residual heat – especially during hotter seasons.
Solution: Before moving the refrigerator, take these extra steps to avoid any mess:
- Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator and make sure it is powered off.
- Step 2: Empty its contents.
- Step 3: Drain the water from its trays.
Take caution in moving the refrigerator as it is heavy, and its parts can be sensitive. Don’t hesitate to get extra help moving it around if you find difficulty doing it yourself.
Relocate your refrigerator somewhere not too warm or cold. Be sure it is not under direct sunlight and is not secluded.
Make sure that there is space between the refrigerator and the walls around it (approximately 1 inch).
Tightly Packed Refrigerator Contents
How you arrange the contents of your refrigerator matters to allow cold air to flow inside it.
There is a proper way to organize the contents of your refrigerator to avoid any inconvenience and further problems.
Solution: Here are tips to avoid a tightly packed refrigerator and to promote good air circulation:
- Avoid overstocking your refrigerator. A packed fridge can cause poor air circulation as there won’t be enough space for cold air to circulate.
- Maximize the designated shelves and compartments for the different types of food. There are areas labeled for fruits, vegetables, meat, etc.
- Keep the bottom and back of the refrigerator clear. These are where the cooling vents are located and tend to be the coldest areas of the refrigerator.
- If you cannot avoid the cooling vents, keep at least 2 inches of free space between the vents and the refrigerator’s contents. This will allow cold air to pump inside the refrigerator.
High Temperature Settings
The ideal temperature setting for maintaining cold air and storing food is 38°F.
Anything higher than the recommended temperature may cause your food to perish faster and will also trigger the High Temperature Alarm.
Thankfully, it is quick and simple to fix this kind of problem.
Solution: Adjust the temperature of your refrigerator. It only takes 3 simple steps:
- Step 1: On your refrigerator’s control panel, locate the “Fridge” indicator. This displays the current temperature inside the refrigerator.
- Step 2: Press on the “Fridge” indicator to cycle through different temperatures.
- Step 3: Adjust the temperature to the ideal setting of 38°F.
Activated Demo Mode
Demo Mode is used when the refrigerator is displayed in stores or showcased at conventions and showrooms. The feature disables most of the refrigerator’s functions to conserve electricity – this includes the compressor, which is responsible for cooling.
Solution: Here are the steps to disable Demo Mode for most Samsung refrigerators:
- Step 1: Check if the control panel is displaying OFF/OF-OF to confirm that your refrigerator is in Demo Mode.
- Step 2: Hold the ENERGY SAVER and POWER FREEZE/FREEZER buttons simultaneously until you hear a chime.
Some models may use a different method to turn off Demo Mode, so it is best to refer to your user manual for the correct button inputs.
Here is a table of the other Samsung fridge models and their button inputs to turn off Demo Mode:
| Model | Button Input |
| RF265** RF266** | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. |
| RF267** | Press Energy Saving & Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. |
| RS263B** RS265B** RS265L** RS267B** RS267L** RS269L** | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. |
| RS2630** | Press Ice Mode and Freezer buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds. |
| RS2530B** | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. |
| RM25++ | Press Arctic Select Zone and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds. |
| RS2544++ RS2545++ | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. |
| RSG++ | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds. |
| RSH++ RSJ++ | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds. |
| RL38E++ RL41E++ RL44E++ | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds. |
| RL38F++ RL41F++ RL44F++ | Press Menu and Select buttons for 6 seconds and press Power Off while it is blinking. |
| RL38S++ RL41S++ RL44S++ | Press Power Off and Temp buttons for 8 seconds and press Temp while it is blinking. |
| RSA++ | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds. |
| RB194AB* RB195AB* RB196AB* RB197AB* RB215A* RB215AB* RB216AB* RB217* RB217AB* RL62** | Press Power Freeze and Freezer Temp buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. |
Damaged Door Seals
The door seals of your refrigerator are responsible for maintaining the circulation of cold air inside it.
The reed switches, on the other hand, detect if the doors are closed or open and will signal the refrigerator to adjust its functions depending on the situation.
When the doors are open, the refrigerator makes the compressor work harder to maintain the set temperature. This is to offset the warm air that enters the refrigerator when opened.
Faulty reed switches cause your refrigerator to falsely detect open doors, which could make the compressor work aimlessly and cause it to overheat and wear itself down.
Another part of the refrigerator’s door seal is the door gasket – the rubber seal designed to allow the refrigerator doors to shut tight and trap the cold air inside.
A dirty or broken door gasket will cause the doors to shut loosely, allowing the warm air outside the refrigerator to flow inside it. This will cause the internal temperature to be higher than its original settings.
A faulty door gasket can also contribute to the refrigerator falsely detecting open doors because the doors may not be shut tight enough for the reed switches to recognize that they are closed.
Solutions:
Reed Switch: Test if the reed switches on your Samsung refrigerator’s doors are working.
- Step 1: Locate the reed switches of your refrigerator. They are indicated by arrows on the top cover of the fridge.
- Step 2: Place magnets in front of the reed switches. This is to simulate closed refrigerator doors.
- Step 3: Observe if your refrigerator reacts to the magnets. A good indicator is if the interior lights of the refrigerator turn off or not – if the lights shut off, the reed switches work.
If the reed switches didn’t react to the magnets, then they are faulty and need to be replaced. Here’s how to do that:
- Step 1: Unscrew the top cover and then locate the locking clips (indicated by faced-up arrows). Pry the top cover open.
- Step 2: Disconnect the electrical plug and fully remove the top cover of the refrigerator.
- Step 3: The reed switches should be attached to the top cover. These can easily be removed by using a flathead screwdriver to pry them off the holders.
- Step 4: Install your new reed switches by snapping them into place on their respective holders.
- Step 5: Reconnect the electrical plug, snap the locking clips back into place, and screw the top cover on.
If you find it difficult to replace the switches, feel free to call for professional help to avoid any further complications.
Door Gasket: Sometimes, dirt and other particles in the gasket cause faultiness. Try to first clean the gasket with a soap-water formula.
If you’ve cleaned the gasket and the problem still persists, you can now safely assume that the gasket is broken. It’s most likely worn out and at this point, needs to be replaced as soon as possible.
Here are the steps for replacing your old refrigerator gasket with a new one:
- Step 1: Remove the old gasket from the door frame. You can do this by gently peeling off the old gasket starting from the top corner and then making your way down.
- Step 2: Fit in the new gasket by pressing it into place. Start from the corners and then make your way around the whole door frame.
- Step 3: Keep pressing the new gasket into place until everything is secured properly into the frame.
If you find trouble installing a new gasket, call a professional to help.
Dirty Condenser Coils
The condenser coils hold the liquid refrigerant, which is an essential part of the refrigerator’s cooling system. This is where the refrigerant passes through and is constantly cycled to create refrigeration.
If your coils are dirty, then this could cause them to function poorly and eventually cause the refrigeration cycle to slow down and either result in freezing or warmer temperatures.
Solution: These are the instructions for cleaning the condenser coils.
- Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator and make sure it is powered off.
- Step 2: Locate the coils. These are usually mounted behind the refrigerator or located inside the compartment at the back of the refrigerator near the bottom.
- Step 3: Use a vacuum cleaner and crevice tool to rid the dust from the coils.
- Step 4: If the coils are still grimy, use a cloth and soap-water solution to clean them.
Faulty Compressor
The refrigerator’s compressor is the main component responsible for providing cold air circulation inside the refrigerator. This is a heavy-duty part that works constantly in the refrigerator’s systems, so it’s likely that it encountered some problems.
A faulty compressor is mainly caused by one of its cables being loose or damaged. This causes it to irregularly turn on and off, disrupting the circulation of cold air inside the refrigerator.
The compressor is located inside the bottom compartment of the refrigerator. It’s a large black device that will have multiple wires and tubes connected to it.
Solution: Unplug and power off your refrigerator. Access the bottom compartment to inspect the compressor.
Inspect the wiring and tubing for any visible defects. Be very careful as the compressor’s electrical components are delicate and sensitive and there is still a risk of shock.
If there are any defects in the wiring and tubing, contact a professional to repair or replace the compressor.
Refrigerant Leak in the System
The liquid refrigerant is responsible for the refrigeration cycle of the refrigerator. This cycle is what keeps the refrigerator cool and stabilizes the working temperatures of the different components inside the refrigerator’s system.
A refrigerant leak can cause your refrigerator to not cool properly because not enough of the liquid is cycled through. This deficit causes parts of the refrigerator to become either too hot or too cold.
Solution: Make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged and powered off before accessing its bottom compartment. Locate the condenser coils of your refrigerator to inspect it for damages and leaks.
Determine if there is a leak by checking the condenser coils and the tubes connected to them. If they are moist and/or frosted, there is a leak.
Take caution in touching these parts of the refrigerator as the refrigerant is harmful to touch. Avoid breathing in the fumes of the refrigerant as well since these pose health risks.
Contact a professional to repair the leak. Dealing with refrigerant is dangerous for those unfamiliar with it.
Restricted Filter Drier
The filter drier is responsible for making sure that there are no impure particles and copper shavings present in the circulating refrigerant. This also captures any moisture present in the refrigerator’s system.
A restricted filter drier causes poor circulation in the refrigerant system, making some parts too cold and some too heated.
Solution: Diagnose if the filter drier is restricted.
The main symptoms of a restricted filter drier are if the compressor and condenser coils radiate too high temperatures.
The normal temperature of the compressor should be less than 300°F while the coils should be around 86°F.
Replacing the filter dryer requires professional assistance because heavy-duty equipment (e.g. welding gear) is involved in the replacement process.
Faulty Fan Motors
Your Samsung refrigerator has two different fan motors – the condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor.
The condenser fan motor is responsible for purging the accumulated heat of the refrigerant to keep the condenser from overheating. Meanwhile, the evaporator fan motor is what circulates the cold air within the refrigerator.
A broken condenser fan motor causes your refrigerator to easily overheat. On the other hand, a broken evaporator fan motor will prevent cold air from circulating properly inside the refrigerator.
Solutions: Unplug the refrigerator and power it off before diagnosing either of the two fan motors.
Condenser Fan: You can identify if this fan is faulty if you don’t hear it spinning or if your refrigerator’s bottom compartment is radiating high temperatures.
Here are the steps for diagnosing the evaporator fan motor:
- Step 1: Access the bottom compartment at the back of the refrigerator. Open it with a set of screwdrivers or a drill screwdriver.
- Step 2: The evaporator fan motor should be beside the compressor. Carefully disconnect it from the wiring.
- Step 3: Perform a continuity test on the evaporator fan motor using a multimeter to diagnose it. Any signs of resistance mean that the fan motor is defective.
Replace the condenser fan if you find it to be faulty and malfunctioning or if it failed the continuity test.
Evaporator Fan: It is easy to identify if the evaporator fan is broken by checking if the airflow inside the refrigerator is weak despite having high settings.
Here are the steps for diagnosing the evaporator fan motor:
- Step 1: Locate the compartment of the evaporator fan motor. This should be at the back of the freezer/refrigerator compartment.
- Step 2: To access the compartment and remove the cover properly, carefully remove the shelves and panels of your refrigerator first.
- Step 3: Remove the cover of the compartment using a set of screwdrivers or a drill screwdriver. Locate and access the evaporator fan motor.
- Step 4: Disconnect the evaporator fan motor from the electrical wiring.
- Step 5: Perform a continuity test using a multimeter to diagnose it. Any signs of resistance mean that the fan motor is defective.
Replace the evaporator fan motor if you find the airflow inside the refrigerator to be weak or if it fails the continuity test.
Take caution in replacing either of the fan motors as the blades are sharp and the electronics are delicate. You should call a professional for help replacing the fans if you find any difficulty doing so.
Broken or Stuck Air Damper Control Assembly
The air damper control assembly is part of your Samsung refrigerator’s cooling system. It is also known as the freezer control or ice damper in other models.
This component opens and closes to regulate the amount of cold air that flows into the different compartments of the refrigerator.
A broken or stuck air damper control can either cause freezing or warming of the insides of the refrigerator.
Solution: Turn off and unplug your refrigerator, and then remove the shelves and bins to clear up the refrigerator compartment.
The air damper is located in the cooling duct at the back of the refrigerator.
Flap the damper by hand to test if it has difficulty opening and closing. If the damper is faulty, replace it and return the cooling duct to its place.
Defective Control Board
The control board is the set of electronics responsible for sending voltage signals to various parts of the refrigerator. A defective control board is unable to send voltage to the compressor and fan motors, preventing the refrigerator from cooling.
It’s also one of the most misdiagnosed causes when your refrigerator doesn’t cool properly.
Solution: The panel containing the control board is located at the back of the fridge, and this requires a set of screwdrivers or a drill screwdriver to open up.
Make sure that your refrigerator is unplugged and powered off.
After opening up the panel, check if there is any visible damage on the control board and the wiring.
If there are no signs of defects and the cooling problem still persists, it’s recommended to check for the other causes we’ll be listing down before you jump to conclusions.
If you find visible damage, then the control board needs to be replaced.
Do not attempt to replace the control board on your own. This is the most expensive and delicate part of your refrigerator and will require professional experience to handle properly.
Faulty Start Relay
The start relay is what provides electric current to the refrigerator’s compressor. A faulty start relay will prevent the compressor from activating – cooling inside the refrigerator will not occur.
The start relay is located in a small casing beside the compressor, inside the fridge’s bottom compartment.
Solution: Here are the instructions to access and diagnose the start relay of the compressor:
- Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator and make sure it is powered off.
- Step 2: Access the bottom compartment. You should be able to see the compressor and a small casing beside it – that’s the start relay.
- Step 3: Remove the casing of the start relay.
- Step 4: Disconnect the start relay from the compressor and its electrical wiring.
- Step 5: Perform a continuity test on the start relay. If the relay shows no signs of resistance, then it should be functioning properly, otherwise, it is faulty.
If you find the start relay to be faulty, you need to replace it with a new one. Here’s how:
- Step 1: Reconnect the wiring in proper order to the new start relay.
- Step 2: Secure the start relay back into its casing and close it up.
- Step 3: Make sure that everything in the bottom compartment is secured. You can plug in and turn on the refrigerator to check if the compressor is working with the new start relay.
Faulty Thermistor and/or Thermostat
There are some Samsung refrigerators that come with a control board and use a thermistor and thermostat in their cooling systems to measure and regulate the temperature inside them.
The thermistor reacts to small changes in temperature while the thermostat signals whether to initiate cooling or defrosting.
A defect in either part causes the cooling system to malfunction and create abnormalities in temperature. This could be the reason why your refrigerator isn’t cooling properly.
Solution:
Here are the steps to test the thermistor:
- Step 1: Locate your refrigerator’s thermistor. You can refer to the user manual, but it’s usually found in the back panel of most refrigerators.
- Step 2: Once you can access the thermistor, run a resistance test using a multimeter.
- Step 3: Set the multimeter to the ohm setting and touch the probes of the multimeter to the wires on the thermistor. The resistance of the thermistor should be 5,000 ohms at room temperature.
Any abnormalities in the multimeter readings signify a faulty thermistor. You should replace your current one if this is the case.
But if there is no problem with the thermistor, you should test the thermostat next.
Here are the steps to test the thermostat:
- Step 1: Locate the refrigerator’s thermostat. You can refer to the user manual, but this is typically found near the thermistor.
- Step 2: Take out the thermostat to test it for continuity. The user manual has electrical specifications for its opening and closing temperatures.
- Step 3: Run the continuity test. If you’re testing for its closing temperatures (colder) then there should be continuity, while opening temperatures (warmer) do not have continuity.
Replace the thermostat if it fails any of the continuity tests or if you find any damage to its wires and components.
The feeling of warmth isn’t necessarily a good thing, especially if it’s coming from your Samsung refrigerator.
Thankfully it’s straightforward enough to troubleshoot and fix, although, if you still find difficulty, then don’t hesitate to ask for professional assistance.
