Fix a Maytag Washer That Won’t Drain Like a Pro (Step-by-Step Guide!)

If your household is anything like ours, laundry day is a never-ending nightmare of washing strange stains and matching socks. But ever so often, life throws a curve ball to shake up our mundane routine—and by curve ball, we mean a washer breakdown.

The most common ones we get are drain errors, which are usually just indications that we’ve been using our washer too much but not cleaning it as much. Now, we can fix these issues without getting fazed, even when it involves replacing faulty parts.

Here, we’re going to delve into why your Maytag washer won’t drain. Then, we’re going to walk you through all the steps to repair it.

Why is my Maytag washer not draining?

A top-load Maytag washer that won’t drain most likely has not been leveled properly or has an incorrectly installed drain system. In some cases, it could be caused by a faulty pump.

On a front-load Maytag washer, a clogged filter or a damaged pump are common culprits of drain problems.

Before performing any repairs, here are a few things you can do to troubleshoot the error.

• Check the error code. Your washer will display an error code to make it easier for you to determine the underlying cause of the problem. Generally, your washer will show an F9 E1 code for a drain error.

At times, it will show other codes to indicate a problem with specific components. For example, an F2 E3 means that the control board is faulty and most likely needs a replacement.

• Check for kinks on the drain hose. Inspect the hose for kinks and bent areas, which may restrict the flow of water out of the washer. Just straighten them out to promote better drainage.

• Restart your washer. Power interruptions may cause your washer’s system to malfunction temporarily. Sometimes, a quick reset is all it needs to get back to business.

Keep reading our guide below if your problem recurs after doing these steps. We’ll delve into other possible causes and give you step-by-step instructions to fix them.

How to Fix a Maytag Washer That Isn’t Draining

To fix a Maytag washer that won’t drain, confirm that the drain system is set up correctly. Make sure the hose is installed at the correct height to prevent siphoning.

For front-load models, remove any obstructions in the drain pump filter and give it a good clean to promote better drainage.

Let’s take a closer look at the possible causes of drain errors in a Maytag washer.

Causes	Solutions
The drain hose isn’t installed correctly.	Standpipe Drain System: Install the supplied U-shaped clamp to the drain hose to keep it bent. The opening should be facing down. Insert about 4.5” of the hose into the drain pipe to avoid siphoning. Secure the hose to the standpipe with a removable tie strap. Don’t seal the drain hose into the standpipe to prevent siphoning.
	Laundry Tub Drain System: Place 4.5” of the drain hose into the laundry tub.  Set up the drain hose on the side of the tub. Don’t leave any excess hose at the bottom of the tub. Secure the drain hose to the laundry tub leg using a removable cable tie.
	Floor Drain System: Remove the drain hose clamp and insert the hose around 4.5” into the drain pipe.  Confirm that the siphon break is installed no less than 28” from the floor.
The drain hose is obstructed.	Disconnect your washer from its power source.  Pull out the drain hose from its port. Connect the end of the hose to a wet or dry vacuum cleaner, then seal the connection using tape.  Turn on the vacuum and keep it running until the obstruction is dislodged. Make a homemade cleaning solution of 1:1 warm water and distilled white vinegar. Pour it down the hose and let it sit for 15 minutes. Pour hot water down the hose to remove the cleaning solution. Wipe the drain port on the washer, and reattach the hose. Reconnect your washer to its power supply. After, run a test cycle to confirm that it drains.
The drain pump filter is clogged.	Disconnect your washer from its power supply. Open the dispenser drawer at the base of the washer to access the drain pump filter.  Push down on the right tab of the drawer and up on the left, then pull it out to remove. Place a small container underneath the filter. Remove the emergency drain hose from its clip. Place it over your container before removing the plug to drain the water. Repeat the procedure until all the water has drained. After, wipe the hose dry and replace the plug before securing it with the clip. Lay a towel under the drain pump filter to absorb excess water. Then, rotate the filter’s knob counterclockwise and pull it out. Check the filter for obstructions. Remove large clumps by hand, then rinse the filter under running water to remove any remaining debris. Insert the filter into its housing. Rotate it clockwise to keep it secure. Reinstall the washer drawer.
The drain pump is damaged.	Disconnect your washer from its power source. Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the drain and inlet hoses from the washer. Carefully pull the washer away from the wall. Then, tilt it forward to access the drain pump at the bottom. Take off the insulation and set it aside. Next, place a towel on the flow to absorb accidental spills. Locate the drain pump assembly. Check the user manual for reference, if needed. Pull out the wires connected to the drain pump. Use a flathead screwdriver if the wires are hard to pull out. Remove the clamps securing the hoses using pliers, and unplug the hoses from the pump.  Unfasten the mounting screws using a 5/16” nut driver. Then, remove the faulty drain pump from the washer. Get your new pump and attach it to the hoses.  Fasten the screws and secure the pump to the washer using a 5/16” nut driver. Use pliers to tighten the clamps on the hoses. Plug in the wires to the terminals on the pump, and reinstall the insulation. Keep your washer upright. Then, reconnect the drain and inlet hoses to the unit. Reconnect the washer to power. Turn on the water supply, and run a test cycle to confirm that the washer drains.
The main control board is faulty.	Disconnect your washer from its power source. Turn off the water supply, then disconnect both inlet hoses. Carefully pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. Unfasten the bolts mounting the panel using a ¼” nut driver.  Pry the front control panel housing open with a flathead screwdriver. Then, unplug the wire harness and set the control panel aside.  Take a photo of the wires connected to the main control board. Refer to it during the reassembly process. Pull out the switch wire connectors and power wire on the control board. Next, remove the bracket and retainer using a flathead screwdriver. Disconnect the air pressure tube. Remove the screws securing the control board using a ¼” nut driver. Next, detach the center knob and remove the control board. Get your new control board, and transfer the wire retaining bracket from the old assembly to the new one. Align the control board with the slots on the panel. Reinstall the screws securing the board, and reattach the control knob. Use your reference photo to reconnect all the wires to the correct terminals on the control board. Secure the wires on the bracket and retainer. Then, reattach the air pressure tube. Align the control panel with the rear panel, and push down until it snaps into place. After, reinstall the screws on the panel to keep it secure. Reconnect all the hoses. Turn on the water supply and restore power to the washer.

The drain hose isn’t installed correctly.

One of the most common causes of drainage problems in a Maytag washer is the incorrect installation of the drain hose. If the hose is lower than the water level in the drum, siphoning will occur, which causes the washer to fill and drain at the same time.

The good news is that the washer itself isn’t malfunctioning. Once you install the drain system correctly, your washer should start draining properly.

Floor Standpipe Drain System

For floor standpipe drain systems, installing the hose too deep into the drain is a likely cause of siphoning. All you have to do is adjust the placement to fix the problem.

Take note that the height of the standpipe must also meet the recommended measurements. For optimal draining, it should be at least 39” but no more than 72” in height.

What you’ll need:

• Measuring tape
• Removable tie strap

Solution: Follow the steps below to install a floor standpipe drain system.

• Step 1: Install the supplied U-shaped clamp to the drain hose to keep it bent. The opening should be facing down.
• Step 2: Slip the drain hose into the standpipe. Make sure it’s no more than 4.5” in to avoid siphoning.
• Step 3: Secure the hose to the standpipe with a removable tie strap. Don’t seal the drain hose into the standpipe to prevent siphoning.

Laundry Tub Drain System

For laundry tub drain systems, siphoning can occur if the height of the drain is below 39”. The height of the drain must measure at least 39” from the floor but not exceed 96”.

What you’ll need:

• Measuring tape
• Cable tie

Solution: Follow the steps below to set up a laundry tub drain system.

• Step 1: Install about 4.5” of the drain hose into the laundry tub. 
• Step 2: Set up the drain hose on the side of the tub. Don’t leave any excess hose at the bottom of the tub.
• Step 3: Secure the drain hose to the laundry tub leg using the supplied cable tie.

Floor Drain System

If you have a floor drain system, you need a siphon break kit, which allows air to enter the drain, preventing dirty water from flowing back into your washer.

Unfortunately, the kit isn’t supplied with the washer, but it is accessible. You can purchase it from Maytag or other repair shops.

What you’ll need:

• Siphon break kit

Solution: Follow these steps to set up a floor drain system.

• Step 1: Remove the pre-installed clamp from the hose.
• Step 2: Install about 4.5” of the hose into the drain.
• Step 3: Confirm that the siphon break is installed no less than 28” from the floor.

The drain hose is obstructed.

Lint, dirt, and other objects that you forgot to remove from your pockets can get lodged into the hose during the draining process. This build-up can restrict the flow of water out of the drum, preventing it from draining.

Unclogging a drain hose can be a little tricky, especially if the object is too far to reach. We’ll show you an easy way to do it, but if this method doesn’t work, it might be best to get a new hose.

What you’ll need:

• Tape
• Towels
• Small container
• Vacuum cleaner
• Warm water
• Distilled white vinegar

Solution: To remove obstructions in your drain hose, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Unplug the washer or turn off power at the circuit breaker.
• Step 2: Pull out the drain hose from its port. 
• Step 3: Get a vacuum cleaner and connect it to the end of the hose. Seal the connection using tape. 
• Step 4: Turn on the vacuum and keep it running until the obstruction is dislodged.
• Step 5: Mix a homemade cleaning solution of 1:1 warm water and distilled white vinegar. Pour it down the hose and let it sit for 15 minutes.
• Step 6: Remove the solution by pouring hot water down the hose.
• Step 7: Wipe the drain port on the washer, and attach the hose.
• Step 8: Reconnect your washer to its power supply.
• Step 9: Run a test cycle to confirm that the washer drains.

H3: The drain pump filter is clogged.

Do you have a front-load Maytag washer? If you do, your drain error is most likely caused by dirt build-up in its drain pump filter, which happens if you don’t regularly clean it.

This filter protects the pump from damage by trapping lint, dirt, and other debris. You should clean it at least once per month to prevent drainage issues and avoid potential damage to the pump.

Cleaning the filter will only take a few minutes. You don’t need to call a professional because you can do it yourself.

What you’ll need:

• Towels
• Small container

Solution: To unclog a drain pump filter on a front-load Maytag washer, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Turn off your washer and disconnect its power cord.
• Step 2: Open the dispenser drawer at the base of the washer to access the drain pump filter. Push down on the tab on the right side and up on the tab on the left side of the drawer, then pull it out to remove.
• Step 3: Place a small flat container underneath the filter.
• Step 4: Remove the emergency drain hose from its clip. Place it over your container before removing the plug to drain the water.

If water doesn’t come out, slightly push the hose in and extend it to remove any kinks on the line.

• Step 5: Empty the container and repeat the procedure until all the water has drained. Once done, wipe the hose dry and replace the plug before securing it with the clip.
• Step 6: Set a towel under the drain pump filter to prevent spills.
• Step 7: Rotate the knob on the filter counterclockwise and pull it out.
• Step 8: Check the filter for lint and debris. Remove large clumps by hand, then rinse the filter under running water to remove any remaining dirt.
• Step 9: Insert the filter into its housing. Rotate it clockwise to keep it secure.
• Step 10: To reinstall the washer drawer, slip both rails simultaneously and push the drawer in until it snaps into place. 

The drain pump is damaged.

Located at the bottom of your washer, the drain pump is responsible for removing water from the drum by sending it through the hose and down the drain. 

Natural wear and tear can cause the pump to fail. This is more likely to happen if your washer is a few years old, especially if you consistently do large loads of laundry.

Another possible cause of damage is dirt. If the drain pump filter isn’t routinely cleaned, dirt and other debris may end up on the pump, causing irreparable damage.

What you’ll need:

• Pliers
• Towels
• Multimeter
• 5/16” nut driver
• Flathead screwdriver
• New drain pump assembly

Solution: To determine if the pump is faulty, isolate it from the washer, then check for continuity using the steps below.

• Step 1: Disconnect your washer from its power source.
• Step 2: Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the drain and inlet hoses from the washer.
• Step 3: Carefully pull the washer away from the wall. Then, tilt it forward to access the drain pump at the bottom.
• Step 4: Take off the insulation and set it aside.
• Step 5: Set a towel on the flow to absorb accidental spills.
• Step 6: Locate the drain pump assembly. Check the user manual for reference, if needed.
• Step 7: Pull out the wires connected to the drain pump. Use a flathead screwdriver if the wires are hard to pull out.
• Step 8: Remove the clamps securing the hoses using pliers.
• Step 9: Unplug the hoses from the pump. 
• Step 10: Unfasten the mounting screws using a 5/16” nut driver.
• Step 11: Isolate the pump from the washer.
• Step 12: Manually spin the impeller on the pump. If it rotates all the way without any resistance, your pump is most likely defective.
• Step 13: Get a multimeter and set it to 2 kilo ohms.
• Step 14: Place both prongs on the electrical terminal on the drain pump.

If your pump is functional, your multimeter should show around 160 to 260 ohms with about 5% leeway. The lowest possible reading should be 152 ohms and anything less than that is an indication of a defective pump.

Once the pump is damaged, it can’t be repaired, but it can be replaced. To replace a drain pump on a top-load Maytag washer, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Disconnect your washer from its power source.
• Step 2: Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the drain and inlet hoses from the washer.
• Step 3: Carefully pull the washer away from the wall. Then, tilt it forward to access the drain pump at the bottom.
• Step 4: Take off the insulation and set it aside.
• Step 5: Set a towel on the flow to absorb accidental spills.
• Step 6: Locate the drain pump assembly. Check the user manual for reference, if needed.
• Step 7: Pull out the wires connected to the drain pump. Use a flathead screwdriver if the wires are hard to pull out.
• Step 8: Remove the clamps securing the hoses using pliers.
• Step 9: Unplug the hoses from the pump. 
• Step 10: Unfasten the mounting screws using a 5/16” nut driver.
• Step 11: Remove the faulty drain pump from the washer.
• Step 12: Get your new pump and attach it to the hoses. 
• Step 13: Fasten the screws and secure the pump to the washer using a 5/16” nut driver.
• Step 14: Use pliers to tighten the clamps on the hoses.
• Step 15: Plug in the wires to the terminals on the pump, and reinstall the insulation.
• Step 16: Keep your washer upright. Then, reconnect the drain and inlet hoses to the unit.
• Step 17: Reconnect the washer to power.
• Step 18: Turn on the water supply, and run a test cycle to confirm that the washer drains.

The main control board is faulty.

Once you’ve ruled out everything else on this list, you should look into another possibility—a faulty main control board. Think of it as the brain of the washer, which controls all functions, including draining.

Although rare, it can happen, especially to older washing machine units. The only way to confirm this is to perform a continuity check on the component, which will require you to isolate it from the washer.

If the component is damaged, there is no fixing it, so it should be replaced to get your washer back up and running. Unfortunately, this part can cost hundreds of dollars and may be hard to find if your unit is older.

You can save a lot of money by performing the fix yourself. Or, you might consider getting a new washer because some units cost as much as the replacement part.

What you’ll need:

• Pliers
• Multimeter
• ¼” nut driver
• Flathead screwdriver
• New main control board

Solution: To confirm a faulty control board, use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, it is defective and needs a replacement.

• Step 1: Disconnect your washer from its power source.
• Step 2: Turn off the water supply. Then, disconnect the hot and cold hoses and the drain hose from the washer.
• Step 3: Carefully pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel.
• Step 4: Remove the bolts on the panel using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 5: Pry open the front control panel housing using a flathead screwdriver
• Step 6: Disconnect the wire harness and set the control panel aside.
• Step 7: Detach the switch wire connectors on the control board, including the power wire. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the bracket and retainer.
• Step 8: Disconnect the air pressure tube.
• Step 9: Unfasten the screws mounting the control board using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 10: Pull out the washer’s center knob, then remove the control board.
• Step 11: Inspect the control board for burn marks and discoloration. If present, these are clear indications of damage.
• Step 12: Use a multimeter to check for continuity. 
• Step 13: Rotate the dial to the Continuity Test mode. Then, place the prongs on each side of the control board’s fuse.

If you hear a beep, the fuse is good and the control board is functioning well. However, if you hear nothing, your control board needs a replacement.

To replace a Maytag top-load washer’s main control board, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Disconnect your washer from its power source.
• Step 2: Turn off the water supply, then disconnect the drain and inlet hoses from the washer.
• Step 3: Carefully pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel.
• Step 4: Unfasten the bolts mounting the panel using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 5: Pry the front control panel housing open with a flathead screwdriver.
• Step 6: Unplug the wire harness and set the control panel aside.
• Step 7: Take a photo of the wires connected to the main control board. Refer to it during the reassembly process.
• Step 8: Pull out the switch wire connectors and power wire on the control board. Next, remove the bracket and retainer using a flathead screwdriver.
• Step 9: Disconnect the air pressure tube.
• Step 10: Remove the screws securing the control board using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 11: Detach the center knob and remove the control board.
• Step 12: Get your new control board, and transfer the wire retaining bracket from the old assembly to the new one.
• Step 13: Align the control board with the slots on the panel. 
• Step 14: Reinstall the screws securing the board, and reattach the control knob.
• Step 15: Use your reference photo to reconnect all the wires to the correct terminals on the control board.
• Step 16: Secure the wires on the bracket and retainer. Then, reattach the air pressure tube.
• Step 17: Align the control panel with the rear panel, and push down until it snaps into place.
• Step 18: Reinstall the screws on the rear panel.
• Step 19: Reconnect all the hoses.
• Step 20: Turn on the water supply and restore power to the washer.