Here’s why your Samsung washer won’t stop spinning. (And Easy Ways to Fix It!)

Waiting for your clothes to rinse but your Samsung machine shows no sign of stopping at all? Are you hearing some weird noises with it?

Don’t panic — we’ve got a solution for your spinning troubles!

When your Samsung washer is seemingly stuck on a spin cycle, a good place to start checking is your cycle settings. That’s right — the problem can be as simple as that!

This article will provide you with some insights on what to look out for when your Samsung washer won’t stop spinning, and also help you get to know your washer’s cycle modes better!

Why is my Samsung washer stuck on a spin cycle?

Samsung washers won’t stop their spin cycles if the laundry load is imbalanced or their cycle settings aren’t apt for the current load inside. 

In other cases, it could mean that the washer is installed incorrectly. The appliance will then continue its washing cycle until it detects an even load.

Samsung washers are very particular in distributing the laundry evenly for safety measures — both for the machine and your clothes. 

When it detects an uneven load, it will attempt to remedy this by tossing your laundry about to balance it out, which results in a spinning cycle that seems to go on forever. Sometimes, you’d even notice the appliance spinning at a slower pace.

The optimal solution to this is to take the load out and make sure it’s balanced in every aspect: weight, fabric type, and the drum space it consumes.

As per Samsung’s guidelines, the minimum recommended weight for a laundry load is about ⅓ full of the washer drum or 1 pound per cubic foot of your washer’s capacity. Going under this requirement will result in an imbalanced laundry.

As so, the upper limit of a Samsung washer’s laundry weight is approximately ¾ full of its washer drum or 3 pounds of laundry per cubic foot of the washer’s capacity. Exceeding this limit will more likely result in slower spin cycles.

The same applies to when the fabric of your load is miscellaneous. Samsung washers are designed with special cycle modes that consider the sensitivity of the fabric makeup of your laundry.

Some fabrics — like comforters, blankets, sheets, and other types of bedding — require more powerful spinning and more water to clean, which in comparison could ruin your delicates — silk or sheer fabrics, underwear, and the like.

When the cycle setting you’re using is incompatible with the type(s) of fabric inside the drum, your washer will detect this as an imbalanced load, which then can result in it either not spinning or continuing to spin for hours.

Below, we’ve detailed these different washing cycles and how much load your washer can take. 

And if the trouble doesn’t seem to end with just the imbalanced laundry, don’t worry — we’ve made sure to cover all grounds to help you figure out why your Samsung washer keeps spinning out of control.

So be sure to keep reading for more information!

Common Causes of a Samsung Washer Getting Stuck on a Spinning Cycle

Aside from an incompatibility between your laundry load and the washing cycle you’re using, a Samsung washer may get stuck on the spin cycle due to other technical issues. We’ve listed them below for you!

Your laundry load is imbalanced.• Check the weight and type of each laundry load, and make sure it matches the current wash cycle.

• Ensure also that the weight does not go over the maximum limit or under the minimum requirement.
The washer is not properly leveled.• Measure the levelness of the washer using a spirit level. Ensure that all of its feet are firmly touching the ground.

• Adjust the leveling feet as required, prioritizing shortening the legs as much as possible.
The pump filter is clogged.• Access the pump filter panel and drain the water from the drain hose. Afterward, pull the pump filter out and clean it using a soft bristle brush.

• Clean the filter housing as well.
The drain hose isn’t installed correctly.• Make sure that the drain hose has no kinks or bends along its body. 

• When inserting into a drain pipe, observe the appropriate measurements and distance.

• The hose should be only 6 to 8 inches deep into the pipe and positioned at least 18 to 96 inches high.
The washer drum is loose.• Test how freely and loosely the drum spins by reaching into it and spinning it by hand.

• If it moves loosely, the drum bearing (for front-load washers) or the drum nut (for top-load washers) should be checked and replaced if necessary.
The suspension spring is weak.• If the drum bearing or drum nut is doing fine but the drum remains loose, the issue may lie in its suspension spring or other similar components.

• For this issue, call for service.
There’s a problem with the door switch.• Open the door and take the door switch out from behind the rubber seal to replace it.

A Samsung washer that’s stuck on a spin cycle can take a huge leap from being a simple load issue to a mechanical one. 

As things start to lean into the more technical aspect, remember to unplug your appliance or cut it off at its power source for safety measures before trying any troubleshooting method!

Your laundry load is imbalanced.

As we’ve briefly explained above, your Samsung washer might be stuck in a spin cycle because it’s detecting an imbalanced load.

You might wonder what the big deal is: why can’t your washing machine spin normally with only just a few stuff inside, or when you put in mixed laundry?

The answer to this is so loud, you won’t be able to ignore it — that’s right; that loud thumping noise your washer does when you put in an unbalanced load is a warning sign!

Samsung washers have a weight requirement for each load — and for good reason!

The unit comes with a minimum spinning power proportionate to the lightest load the appliance will allow.

The spinning power doesn’t change even when you go under the weight requirement, and with fewer clothes to toss about and accommodate, the washer will end up ‘hitting itself’, so to speak.

That’s why you’ll sometimes hear a thumping noise.

The same can be said when you’re spinning a load that goes over the maximum load limit. In this case, you might also notice the drum visibly tipping to the side with the heavier load.

This can eventually damage the mechanical parts of your Samsung washing machine that are holding the drum up. It could also damage your clothes in the process.

Avoiding imbalanced loads is easier when you’ve familiarized yourself with your washer’s load limits. They generally depend on your unit’s capacity, but for an overview, they can be categorized into three:

  • Small Load: ⅓ full of the drum or 1 pound of laundry per cubic foot of the washer’s capacity.
  • Medium Load: ½ full of the drum or 2 pounds of laundry per cubic foot of the washer’s capacity.
  • Large Load: ¾ full of the drum or 3 pounds of laundry per cubic foot of the washer’s capacity.

You can find your washer’s measurements in its user manual, and from there you can measure the quantity of each load yourself. 

To give you an estimate, if your Samsung washer has 4.0 cubic feet of capacity, a 4-pound laundry load will be considered a small load, an 8-pound load will be considered a medium load, and a 12-pound laundry load will be considered large.

Aside from physically weighing your laundry, you can also estimate each load by keeping these standard weights of each fabric in mind:

  • Bath towels typically weigh 1.5 pounds each.
  • Full-sized bed sheets are about 1.25 pounds each.
  • Large-sized sweatshirts are approximately 1 pound each.
  • Extra large shirts weigh approximately half a pound each.

Furthermore, Samsung washers have special cycle modes you can choose from to wash different kinds of fabric.

While these modes follow the appliance’s standard weight requirements, they also take into account the optimal water levels, rinse counts, and other specifications essential to ensuring your fabric’s quality.

Here’s a rundown of your Samsung washer’s cycle modes and the kind of fabric they’re best suited for:

  • Active Wear: This cycle provides gentle but effective soil removal action. Ideal for sportswear such as jerseys, training pants, shirts, tops, and other similar clothing.
  • Allergen: This can work on any type of fabric. Ideal for removing dust mites, pet dander, or other allergic substances from your laundry.
  • Bedding, Bedding Plus: Ideal for bulky items such as comforters, blankets, duvets, and sheets. This cycle has to be used with liquid detergent, and can only accommodate one type of bedding at a time.

Before putting bedding and other similar items in this cycle, ensure that the material of their fabric isn’t delicate (i.e. made of silk or other similar fabric). Otherwise, you’ll have to use a more gentle cycle on it instead.

Moreover, when using this cycle, avoid rolling the items up or they might get stuck inside the drum.

  • Bedding, Waterproof: Similar to the Bedding or Bedding Plus cycle, this setting is ideal for bulky items such as comforters, blankets, duvets, and sheets.

This can also be used for bulky waterproof or water-resistant items such as raincoats, plastic mats, ski pants, and the like.

This cycle has to be used with liquid detergent.

  • Darks: Ideal for casual items with bright or dark colors.
  • Delicates, Hand Wash: Ideal for sheer items, underwear (including lingerie), silk, and other handwash-only fabrics. This cycle is best used with liquid detergent.
  • Downloaded: This is for a selection of other washing cycles that aren’t displayed on your Samsung washer’s control panel.

This is only accessible via the SmartThings app.

  • Eco Wash, Eco Cold: This cycle uses normal or default washing settings but under energy-saving conditions.

This can only be run using cold water.

  • Heavy Duty: This cycle is ideal for sturdy, colorfast fabrics and heavily soiled items.
  • Normal: Your Samsung washer’s default cycle. This is ideal for most items, especially cotton, bed and/or table linens, underwear, towels, or shirts.
  • Perm Press: Ideal for wash-and-wear, synthetic fabrics, and lightly to normally soiled items.
  • Pure Cycle: This is not for washing clothes. This cycle is for putting your Samsung washer in self-cleaning mode.

This mode needs to be used with no detergent or bleach. We recommend activating this mode every 40 washes.

  • Quick Wash: Ideal for loads that weigh 4 pounds or lower. Use this cycle to quickly wash (and dry) lightly soiled items.
  • Rinse + Spin: This cycle is used for rinsing only or adding rinse-added fabric softener to your items. You can run this cycle after a different cycle mode for extra rinsing and spinning.
  • Sanitize: This cycle heats the water to 150°F (65.56°C) to sanitize your items and eliminate bacteria. This is ideal for heavily soiled, colorfast items.
  • Spin Only: This mode provides an extra spin cycle without using water. You can use this after a different cycle to remove the water from the drum.
Quick Tip:
If your Samsung washer model doesn’t have a Spin Only setting on the control panel, you can toggle this setting by pressing and holding the Spin button for 3 seconds or until a cycle time displays.

You can then select your desired spinning setting and begin the cycle.

  • Stain Away: This cycle works best at hot temperatures to wash stained items.
  • Towels: This cycle is ideal for bath towels, washcloths, mats, and the like.

Due to the nature of the absorbency of the items this setting is catered to, we recommend putting in no more than half a load (6 pounds) of items at a time.

  • Whites: This cycle is ideal for white fabrics, and can be used with or without bleach.
  • Wool: This cycle is ideal for machine-washable wool, but is recommended to be run with less than 8 pounds (ideally a maximum of 4.4 pounds) and using a neutral detergent.

These cycle modes work under different settings customized to take care of one type of fabric at a time, hence why putting different items that require dissimilar washing settings will trigger the appliance’s unbalanced load detection system.

Solution: Balance out your laundry by categorizing them via their fabric makeup and the cycle setting you need to wash them.

Make sure to observe the minimum or maximum weight requirement of each load, even as you’re washing similar items with the same settings. Divide loads that go over the weight requirement into smaller batches.

Ensure also that the laundry is evenly distributed inside the drum, not leaning onto one side or too far back into the corners.

Quick Tip:
• An unbalanced load can sometimes come with a UE error code, (samsung washer ue code) which can make it easier for you to identify the root of the spinning issue.
• Even without this error, however, the first thing you should check during spinning troubles — whether because the washer won’t stop spinning, won’t spin at all, or keeps ejecting laundry soaking wet — is the balance of your laundry load.

The washer is not properly leveled.

If imbalanced laundry doesn’t seem to be the trouble but the never-ending spin cycle is still accompanied by an occasional loud thumping noise, the problem might be your Samsung washer itself isn’t balanced.

Or, in this case, the appliance is unleveled.

This could happen when you’ve recently moved the unit to another room, or if you’ve spun an imbalanced load one too many times and have left the appliance leaning onto one side.

This could also happen for the first time if you’re using a pedestal or riser.

A good way to determine if your Samsung washing machine isn’t properly leveled is to use a spirit level to measure it.

Simply take a spirit level and place it on top of your unplugged washing machine. Make sure the drum is empty as well!

Afterward, observe the bubble inside the spirit level. It should be resting evenly between the two black lines.

If it isn’t, that means you’ll have to adjust your washer to level it. The good news is that Samsung appliances come with adjustable legs that can make adjustments easier.

Solution: To adjust your Samsung washer’s legs, you’ll need a wrench. Most units come with a kit to include this — check yours!

If you’re using a front-load washer, your unit likely has four adjustable legs. But if you’re using a top-load model, you’ll have to check if all the legs are adjustable.

Some top-load models only have two or three adjustable legs — primarily the front ones.

To adjust the leg, using the wrench, turn the leg clockwise to raise the washer and counterclockwise to lower it. Do this for each leg (especially the front ones) until the bubble in the spirit level is even.

It’s best to keep in mind that the lower your washer’s legs are, the more stable the unit will be. You also have to make sure that all of the appliance’s feet are firmly in contact with the floor.

Once leveled, use the locking nuts to lock the adjustments you made to your washer’s legs.

Once you’ve made the appropriate adjustments and have ensured that the machine is leveled, run a test cycle on it. Put a small load of laundry in a spin cycle and observe if the unit will shake or vibrate.

If it does, continue to make adjustments.

Quick Tip:
Aside from a spirit level, you can also check the level of your washer by either of these two methods:

• If you’re using a front-load washer, rock and wobble it to determine if it’s firmly in contact with the ground. 
• When you put both hands on the washer and try to shake it, a level washer wouldn’t wobble in the slightest.
• If yours does, try to trace in which corner it feels most unstable. This is the first corner you need to make adjustments to.
• If you’re using a top-load washer, you can opt to fill the tub with water just below the pulsator. If the water drains, you need to refill the tub quickly to perform the test.
• With the water in the tub, the pulsator should be in the center of its surface. Observe if there’s more water on one side or in any direction.
• Where there seems to be more water is where you need to make the first adjustments. Keep making adjustments until the pulsator is completely centered with even water on all sides.
• Keep in mind that the pulsator may not be centered when it’s empty — which is why you need to fill it up with just enough water to determine if it’s all leaning to one side!

Always remember that before performing any of the above tests (including the spirit level method), you need to have your washer unplugged for your safety!

Moreover, the shorter the legs, the better — so when you’re adjusting them, prioritize lowering the legs over raising them.

The pump filter is clogged.

Front-load Samsung washers are equipped with pump filters — also known as debris filters — that act as both a draining system and also a filtering system that collects tiny stray particles like dirt or lint from your laundry while it’s in a washing cycle.

Lint inevitably builds up in this part of the machine after approximately 40 washes. Moreover, while it’s designed to collect smaller lint only, other objects like coins, hair clips, and keys can find their way into the pump filter during a washing cycle.

When larger-than-expected objects like them make their way into the filter, the part gets clogged faster, causing your washer to be stuck in a spin cycle with the machine having nowhere else to drain the water it’s using.

You can locate the pump filter in the bottom corner of the front side of your Samsung washer.

Solution: To clean a Samsung washer’s pump filter, follow these steps:

  • Step 1: Open the pump filter door. On most washers, you can simply press on and release the door to open it.

But if your model doesn’t do this, you’ll have to pry the filter door open using a slim object such as a flathead screwdriver or a coin.

Afterward, you’ll need to get a towel and a dish ready. The bigger and deeper the dish, the better as you’ll be draining water into it.

  • Step 2: Take the drain hose and remove its cap, then drain the water. Make sure to grab the hose and pull it out facing upwards.

As soon as you remove its cap, water will start pouring out, so be sure to place the dish nearer to the mouth of the hose before facing it downwards.

When the dish is ready to overflow, simply put the cap over the hose again and discard all the water in the dish. Repeat this step until all the water from the hose has been drained.

  • Step 3: Remove the filter and clean it with a soft brush. Once you’re done with the hose, move on to cleaning the filter itself.

The pump filter may be a bit tricky to remove as it’s placed airtight, in which case you can apply some elbow grease to ease it out.

You can remove this part by pushing the filter in by the knob as you’re turning it counterclockwise. Once loose enough, you can pull it out of its housing and clean it.

You can clean it either by shaking out all the lint buildup or by using a soft brush on the more stubborn debris.

It’s also recommended to clean the filter housing, especially if there’s a particularly large lint buildup. What’s clogging the filter is likely clogging its housing as well.

In both cases, you should use a soft bristle brush — preferably with no soap.

Once you’re done cleaning everything, put the filter and the hose back in place. Make sure that the filter is as airtight and secure as when you removed them or else you’ll be causing a leak.

Quick Tip:
You don’t need to clean the pump filter after every use. It’s ideal to do this after every 40 washes instead, along with the rest of your Samsung washer’s body! (how to clean samsung washer)

The drain hose isn’t installed correctly.

As you’re troubleshooting the pump filter, you’ll likely notice if the drain hose is loose or isn’t installed correctly if it seems to be struggling to drain the water.

Each model has its respective hose guide with the exact specifications for the hose placement but, as a general rule, the drain hose must be inserted into the drain pipe for no less than 6 inches or more than 8 inches deep.

Less than 6 inches is inadequate and will likely cause a leak. In the worst-case scenario, the hose itself might fall out.

On the other hand, if the hose is inserted 8 inches deep, it creates a vacuuming or siphoning effect rather than a draining one. This will your washer to flood in and drain at the same time.

Solution: To ensure that the drain hose is installed correctly, you’ll have to take it out of the machine first. Furthermore, you’ll also have to measure it to verify how much of it is inserted into the drain pipe.

To take the hose out of its housing, do the following:

  • Step 1: Unplug the machine and turn off the water supply to the washer.
  • Step 2: Open the pump filter panel and drain the water from the machine as instructed above. To recount, you can open the filter door using a slim object or simply by depressing it.

Once opened, grab a dish and a towel and pull the drain hose out of its housing, then uncap it and pour the water from it out onto the dish.

We don’t need to clean the filter this time; after all the water has drained, simply put the drain hose back in place then close the pump filter door.

  • Step 3: Carefully tilt the washer on its side and access the open panel below. We recommend placing a sturdy support box you can lean the washer against.

If the appliance is too heavy for you, don’t hesitate to ask for help!

Ensure the appliance doesn’t wobble even while lying on its side. If it does, you’ll need another support to steady it.

Once steadied, place a bigger towel below the washer. As a rule, the more water you drained from the hose earlier, the bigger the towel you’ll need.

The next steps will require you to reach into the open panel on the bottom of the washer, hence why we needed to tilt it to the side.

  • Step 4: Disconnect the other hoses and remove the clamp on the drain hose. Once you get a visual of the appliance’s open panel, you’ll notice two visible hoses — one conspicuously larger than the other.

The drain hose we need to troubleshoot is the smaller one, but to access it, we’ll have to remove the larger one first (the tub-to-pump hose).

For this, you can either move its clamp out of the way by hand or, if it’s a bit too tight, use a pair of pliers to loosen it. Once the clamp is out of the way, you can proceed to remove the tub-to-pump hose.

Be careful; there might be water coming out of this hose once removed.

When the tub-to-pump hose is disconnected, you can now remove the clamp on the drain hose. For this, a pair of pliers is recommended.

Once the clamp is removed, disconnect the drain hose from its pump.

  • Step 5: Undo the clamps along the drain hose then put the washer back on its feet. 

Unlike the metal clamp securing the hoses onto their respective pumps, these clamps are easier to undo. All you need to do is pull the hose or wiggle it out!

Afterward, place the washer back on its feet.

  • Step 6: Unscrew the rear panel cover of the washer. Most units have this panel attached by two Phillips screws, so undoing them with a Phillips screwdriver will do the trick.

Afterward, remove the cover by pushing it up to loosen the bottom half, then sliding it down to release the upper half.

Then we’ll be unclamping a few parts some more, so grab your Phillips screwdriver again, and let’s move on to the next step!

  • Step 7: Remove the clamps around the drain hose and its mounting bracket. 

Three more clamps around the drain hose need to be removed: one inside the rear panel, one outside holding the hose to the appliance’s body, and one behind the mounting bracket.

To remove the one inside the panel, simply reach into the space and pull the hose away from the clamp. 

To remove the one outside the unit, unscrew it using a Phillips screwdriver — it’s held in place with just a single screw!

Afterward, remove the mounting bracket (below the clamp you just unscrewed) by prying the top half away from the unit body as you’re pushing it up. This will disengage its side clips.

Once the mounting bracket is loose, you can disconnect the last clamp behind it.

With all the clamps loosened, you can pull the drain hose free!

Once the drain hose is removed, inspect it for any kinks or bent areas. If there are any, you will need to replace the hose.

You can reattach the drain hose by retracing the steps above. 

We’d also like to emphasize reattaching the clamp holding the drain hose to the unit’s body. If you keep this part removed, your washer will drain automatically and give out an LC or 4C error code. (samsung washer error codes)

When it’s time to insert the hose into the drain pipe, remember to measure 6-8 inches from the end of the hose. Moreover, when connected to a drain pipe, the hose should be positioned no less than 18 inches high and no more than 96 inches high.

Using a drain hose extension kit to extend it is not recommended.

Quick Tip:
If your Samsung washer’s drain hose is connected to a sink instead of a drain pipe, the hose should be positioned at least 24 inches high or no higher than 35 inches.

The washer drum is loose.

In other cases where your Samsung washer seems to be detecting an unbalanced load even though nothing is out of place with the laundry itself, the problem might lie in the drum instead.

A loose drum can cause an unbalanced spin, and your Samsung washer might detect this as an unbalanced load instead.

The major indicator of a loose drum is a drum that spins freely by hand. If you reach into the drum and try to spin it by hand, it shouldn’t spin freely in place.

If it does, and if it’s accompanied by a grinding noise, it means that the drum is loose. Another likely indicator is when the drum moves away from the door seal when you reach inside and touch it or spin it by hand.

A loose drum is ultimately caused by one too many unbalanced loads after another, especially if they regularly exceed the maximum weight limit.

Solution: When the drum is loose, the problem is likely in the drum bearings (for front-load washers) or the drum nut (for top-load washers).

Your best option for this is to take your appliance to the nearest Samsung help center. But you can try to check the state of the drum bearings yourself by doing the following for front-load washers:

  • Step 1: Unplug the appliance and turn it around to access the rear panel. As we’ve been over previously, the rear panel of a front-load washer is secured by two Phillips screws you’ll have to undo.

Afterward, shift the panel cover up to release its bottom half, and then down to completely remove the upper half.

  • Step 2: Remove the rotor mounting bolt as well as the cover panel to access the drum bearings. Once the rear panel of the machine is removed, you’ll get a view of the appliance’s rotor cover panel.

You can unscrew this using a 19-mm socket. Afterward, you can unthread the bolt and pull off the round cover panel to access the motor.

A tell-tale sign of a faulty drum bearing is when there is noticeable rust and leaking water on the bottom of the motor and above the elements (the ones connected by wires).

You can remove the ring on the center motor to get a better view of the bearings. If there is any rust on them or if they are falling out, they need to be replaced as soon as possible.

Top-loader washers, meanwhile, are a little less complicated — they use a drum nut that you can easily see and adjust when you unscrew and remove the pulsator. The drum nut is underneath this part.

This part, however, is prone to developing mold and building up dirt, especially over time. Before adjusting or replacing the drum nut on your top-loader washer, we recommend cleaning out this area first.

The suspension spring is weak.

Another part of your Samsung washer that can contribute to a loose drum is the drum’s suspension springs, otherwise known as the support rod.

As the name implies, this component holds up the drum in place. When it wears out, it becomes weaker and weaker until it can no longer lift the drum in position.

The weaker it gets, the more you’ll notice the appliance’s drum moving freely on its own — in other words, it’s getting loose.

Similar to a worn-out drum bearing or drum nut, this component wears down with age, but particularly heavy loads can contribute to exhausting it much quicker.

For top-load washers, the suspension support rods are found around the drum, in the four corners of the machine.

Meanwhile, a front-load washer’s suspension spring is located behind the outer tub.

Solution: When a suspension spring or support rod goes weak, the best option to take is to have it replaced for preventive measures.

For this, you’ll have to take the appliance to your nearest Samsung support center for assistance.

Quick Tip:
• If it’s neither the drum bearings nor the suspension spring, but the drum still feels very loose, then that means the problem lies in another part of the drum assembly.
• This is an entirely different issue on its own — and a very mechanical one, at that! When your Samsung washer drum starts to feel independent from the unit altogether, immediately take it to a service center.

There’s a problem with the door switch.

All Samsung appliances are designed with a safety measure that halts operations when the machine senses that the door is open.

On the other end of that spectrum, when the appliance doesn’t sense the door opening anytime soon, it might keep operations going on and on.

This is especially applicable for front-load washers, as they’re more prone to hurl the laundry out when left open.

A faulty door switch will make it hard for your door to lock or latch. In other cases, the switch will only register the door as closed, even when it isn’t locked or latched.

However, this will often translate into a door error, so unless your washer’s displaying a dE error code, you can save this part for last. 

Though it’s still worth looking into to verify that there’s nothing else wrong with your washer!

Solution: To access your Samsung washer’s door switch assembly, do the following:

  • Step 1: Open the door and remove the clamp under the door seal. A flathead screwdriver can help you with this.

Use the screwdriver to nudge a part of the clamp out of its housing, and then carefully pull it out all the way.

  • Step 2: Undo the screws holding the door switch assembly in place. For this step, you’ll have to pry the door seal off the front panel about halfway — no need to remove it completely!

This is to create an opening behind the rubber seal for when you need to take the door switch out.

For now, you’ll have to unscrew the assembly using a Phillips screwdriver. You can find the screws you need to remove on the right side of the door assembly.

  • Step 3: Gently take out the door switch assembly and disconnect the wires. This part may be a little tricky as the wire harnesses are connected behind the door where you can’t see them, limiting your flexibility.

When taking this part to view, be careful not to tug at it too harshly. Moreover, if any part — including the wires — feel too airtight, don’t strain to remove or disconnect them; simply use your screwdriver to assist!

  • Step 4: Once you’ve taken the assembly out, you can replace it with a new one.

A Samsung washer that’s stuck on a spin cycle is quite a chore, but don’t let all the causes overwhelm you! 

Most of the time, resolving how you use the washing settings can help — not only in fixing the issue but also in taking care of the appliance and making sure it runs its course for a long time.

Most of your Samsung washer’s mechanical parts will eventually wear down over time, but being mindful of how you use the unit and how regularly you perform maintenance on it can delay any sort of component exhaustion longer!

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