Solving My Maytag Washer’s Lid Lock Blinking Mystery (And Finding Lost Socks)

Is there a magical world where all the missing socks go? One of life’s greatest mysteries has now been solved—but to our dismay, it has nothing to do with a mischievous sock gnome.

As it turns out, our socks have been in our washer this whole time, wedged between the rubber gaskets. We found out when our washer’s door would no longer close and the lid lock would not stop blinking.

Although our lost socks are probably the most common culprit of the incessant blinking, other factors like component failure could also cause this error.

We know it can be pretty overwhelming, but hang in there! We’ll help you figure out why your Maytag washer’s lid lock keeps blinking and show you how to fix it.

Why is my Maytag washer’s lid lock blinking?

A Maytag washer’s lid lock blinks when the door isn’t completely closed or locking properly, which can be caused by obstructions like clothes or dirt. 

Another common culprit is a defective lid lock assembly. In such cases, a replacement is necessary to fix the issue.

Before making any repairs, here are a few ways to troubleshoot your washer.

• Inspect the door for obstructions.

Sometimes, our clothes get stuck between the door and the seal when we’re in a rush to load the laundry. In such cases, all you have to do is remove the obstruction and close the door shut.

If a build-up of lint, dust, or detergent residue is causing the obstruction, you have to clean the area using a cotton swab or some tweezers before closing the door.

• Set the controls correctly.

Make sure the knob is aligned correctly with the desired cycle. After, press the Start button for up to 3 seconds to start it.

• Restart your washer.

Power interruptions may cause your washer to malfunction temporarily. Just unplug the power cord or turn off the circuit breaker to get rid of the glitch in the system.

If none of these helped, keep reading our guide to learn more about other possible causes and their respective solutions.

Causes and Solutions

Let’s take a closer look at the possible reasons why your Maytag washer’s lid lock keeps on blinking. We also have step-by-step instructions to help you troubleshoot it yourself.

Causes	Solutions
The door gasket is dirty.	Disconnect power to the washer. Open the washer door and inspect the area near the door lock, as well as the rubber gasket, for dirt, soap residue, and other possible obstructions. Dip a towel in warm soapy water. Then, use it to wipe around the door and gasket area. Pull back the rubber and wipe it clean. After, get a dry cloth and wipe the area until it is dry. Keep the door open until the gasket is fully dry. To speed up the process, wipe the area with a dry towel. Restore power to the washer once the gasket is dry. Confirm that the door latches properly.
The inlet screens are filthy.	Disconnect power to the washer. Remove the hot water fill hose by rotating the coupling by hand. Repeat the same step for the cold water fill hose. Use pliers to pull out the inlet screens on both valves. Wipe the screens clean using cotton swabs or soak them in soapy water. Wipe the screens with a soft cloth or let them air dry before reinstalling them into the washer. Use pliers to reinsert the inlet screens. Attach the hot water fill hose to the inlet valve to the right. Rotate the coupling by hand until it is snug, then secure the connection using pliers. Repeat the same step to attach the cold water fill hose. Restore power to the washer. Turn it on and run a test cycle to check if the washer fills and starts.
The washer is draining and filling at the same time.	Standpipe Drain System: Install the supplied U-shaped clamp to the drain hose to keep it bent. The opening should be facing down. Insert about 4.5” of the hose into the drain pipe to avoid siphoning. Secure the hose to the standpipe with a removable tie strap. Don’t seal the drain hose into the standpipe to prevent siphoning.
	Laundry Tub Drain System: Place 4.5” of the drain hose into the laundry tub.  Set up the drain hose on the side of the tub. Don’t leave any excess hose at the bottom of the tub. Secure the drain hose to the laundry tub leg using a removable cable tie.
	Floor Drain System: Remove the drain hose clamp and insert the hose around 4.5” into the drain pipe.  Confirm that the siphon break is installed no less than 28” from the floor.
The lid latch assembly is broken.	Disconnect power to the washer then shut off its water supply. Disconnect the drain and water supply hoses. Tape the door shut. Move the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. Use the ¼” nut driver to unfasten the screws on the small cover and the rear access panel. Set the cover and panel aside. Unplug the lid switch’s wire connector. Refer to your user manual, if necessary. Remove the plastic retainer clip. Then, squeeze the two prongs on the wire harness retainer and push it down to release it. Remove the two screws securing the top panel.  Pull the top forward and lift it up until the tabs on the rear panel fit into the slots on the top. Get the holding strap and attach the hooks to the washer’s top and main body. Use the flathead screwdriver to pry the lid switch out.  Remove the wire harnesses from the retaining clips. Then, pull the harness out and set it aside. Get the new lid lock assembly and slide it into position.  Insert the wire harness into the opening on the washer’s top. Then, slip the wire under the retaining clips to keep it secure. Push the wire harness retainers into the slot on the washer’s top until it snaps into place. Unhook the holding straps. Close the washer’s top by simply pressing it down until it is secure. Attach the retaining clip of the lid switch’s wire harness. Then, reconnect the wire to the control board. Reinstall the two screws that secure the top panel. Then, mount the rear access panel and the small cover. Reconnect the hoses and turn on the water supply. Restore power to the washer. Run a test cycle to confirm that the door latches and the unit drains properly.
The control board is defective.	Disconnect power to the washer. Turn off the water supply, then disconnect both inlet hoses. Move the washer away from the wall to access the back panel. Unfasten the bolts mounting the panel using a ¼” nut driver.  Pry the front control panel housing open with a flathead screwdriver. Then, unplug the wire harness and set the control panel aside.  Take a photo of the wires connected to the main control board. Refer to it during the reassembly process. Pull out the switch wire connectors and power wire on the control board. Next, remove the bracket and retainer using a flathead screwdriver. Disconnect the air pressure tube. Remove the screws securing the control board using a ¼” nut driver. Next, detach the center knob and remove the control board. Get your new control board and transfer the wire retaining bracket from the old assembly to the new one. Align the control board with the slots on the panel. Reinstall the screws securing the board and reattach the control knob. Use your reference photo to reconnect all the wires to the correct terminals on the control board. Secure the wires on the bracket and retainer. Then, reattach the air pressure tube. Align the control panel with the rear panel and push down until it snaps into place. After, reinstall the screws on the panel to keep it secure. Reconnect all the hoses. Turn on the water supply and restore power to the washer.

The door gasket is dirty.

Over time, lint, dirt, and detergent residue can build up between the door gasket, which is a rubber seal that prevents water from leaking out of a front-load washing machine. 

At times, small objects like coins, buttons, and even your socks can get wedged between the seals. When all that gunk accumulates, your washer’s door might not close shut.

If there isn’t any damage to the rubber seal, a quick yet thorough clean should be enough to fix your problem.

What you’ll need:

• Affresh Machine Cleaning wipes

Solution: To clean a Maytag washer’s dirty door gasket, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Open the washer door.
• Step 2: Carefully pull back the door seal and inspect the entire area for possible obstructions.
• Step 3: Remove any small items like coins or buttons that might have gotten stuck in the door seal.
• Step 4: Use the textured side of the Affresh wipes to clean the entire surface of the rubber seal.
• Step 5: Close the washer door and check if it latches properly.

The inlet screens are filthy.

Is your washer displaying an E1 F8 or an LF error code? Either way, the blinking lid lock could be caused by a filling error.

If there’s nothing wrong with your home’s water pressure, you should check for obstructions in the inlet screens. These tiny filters trap dirt from your water supply and keep your laundry clean.

However, an obstructed inlet screen will restrict the flow of water into your washer. This triggers the filling error and prompts your lid lock indicator light to blink nonstop.

You can clean the inlet screens every six months or so. But if you live in an area with hard water, you should do it more often.

What you’ll need:

• Pliers
• Soft cloth
• Cotton swab

Solution: To clean a Maytag washer’s water inlet screens, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Disconnect the washer from power.
• Step 2: Remove the hot water fill hose by rotating the coupling by hand. Use pliers if necessary.
• Step 3: Repeat the same step for the cold water fill hose.
• Step 4: Use pliers to pull out the inlet screens on both valves.
• Step 5: Wipe the mesh screens using cotton swabs or soak the screens in soapy water.
• Step 6: Wipe the screens with a soft cloth or let them air dry before reinstalling them into the washer.
• Step 7: Use pliers to reinsert the inlet screens.
• Step 8: Attach the hot water fill hose to the inlet valve to the right. Rotate the coupling by hand until it is snug, then secure the connection using pliers.
• Step 9: Repeat the same step to attach the cold water fill hose.
• Step 10: Restore power to the washer. 
• Step 11: Turn it on and run a test cycle to check if the washer starts.

The washer is draining and filling at the same time.

An incorrectly installed drain system will cause your washer to fill and drain at the same time. If the drain height is too low or the hose is too far down the drain pipe, your washer can siphon dirty water into the drum and soil all your clothes.

At this point, the blinking lid lock is the least of your worries. But on the bright side, the fix is quick and very easy.

Whether you’re using a floor standpipe, a floor drain, or a laundry tub, you need to follow Maytag’s recommendations to ensure proper drainage. Always check your user manual for instructions specific to your washer model.

Floor Standpipe Drain System

What you’ll need:

• Measuring tape
• Removable tie strap

Solution: Follow the steps below to install a floor standpipe drain system.

• Step 1: Attach the supplied U-shaped clamp to the drain hose to keep it bent. Make sure the opening is facing down.
• Step 2: Insert the drain hose up to 4.5” max into the standpipe.
• Step 3: Use the supplied tie strap to secure the hose to the standpipe. Don’t seal the drain hose into the standpipe to prevent siphoning.

Laundry Tub Drain System

What you’ll need:

• Measuring tape
• Cable tie

Solution: Follow the steps below to set up a laundry tub drain system.

• Step 1: Install about 4.5” of the drain hose into the laundry tub. 
• Step 2: Set up the drain hose on the side of the tub. Don’t leave any excess hose at the bottom of the tub.
• Step 3: Use the supplied tie strap to secure the hose to the laundry tub’s leg.

Floor Drain System

What you’ll need:

• Siphon break kit

Solution: Follow these steps to set up a floor drain system.

• Step 1: Remove the pre-installed clamp from the hose.
• Step 2: Install about 4.5” of the hose into the drain.
• Step 3: Confirm that the siphon break is installed no less than 28” from the floor.

H3: The lid latch assembly is broken.

The lid latch assembly is a safety mechanism in your washer that keeps the door shut during cycles. If it’s defective, the lock will not latch and the washer will not start.

Like other components, a faulty lid latch assembly can’t be repaired. You have to replace it to get the lid lock to stop blinking and the washer to start a new cycle.

What you’ll need:

• ¼” nut driver
• Holding strap
• Tape
• Flathead screwdriver
• New lid latch assembly

Solution: To confirm that the lid latch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to check for continuity. If it lacks continuity, it’s broken and requires replacement.

• Step 1: Unplug the washer or turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
• Step 2: Shut off the water supply to the washer.
• Step 3: Disconnect the drain and water supply hoses. Tape the door shut.
• Step 4: Move the washer away from the wall to access the back panel.
• Step 5: Use the ¼” nut driver to unfasten the screws on the small cover and the rear access panel. Set the cover and panel aside.
• Step 6: Unplug the lid switch’s wire connector. Refer to your user manual if necessary.
• Step 7: Remove the plastic retainer clip. Then, squeeze the two prongs on the wire harness retainer and push it down to release it.
• Step 8: Use the ¼” nut driver to remove the two screws securing the top panel.
• Step 9: Pull the washer’s top forward and lift it up until the tabs on the rear panel fit into the slots on the top.
• Step 10: Get the holding strap and attach the hooks to the washer’s top and main body.
• Step 11: Use the flathead screwdriver to pry the lid switch out. 
• Step 12: Remove the wire harnesses from the retaining clips. Then, pull the harness out and set it aside.
• Step 13: Rotate the dial on the multimeter to the lowest ohms of resistance.
• Step 14: Touch each of the probes to the switch’s power input terminals. Then, actuate the switch.

If the multimeter shows close to 0 ohms of resistance, the assembly has continuity. However, if it shows little to no change when you actuate the switch, it means that the component is defective and requires a replacement.

To replace your top-load Maytag washer’s faulty lid switch, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Unplug the washer or turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
• Step 2: Shut off the water supply to the washer.
• Step 3: Disconnect the drain and water supply hoses. Tape the door shut.
• Step 4: Move the washer away from the wall to access the back panel.
• Step 5: Use the ¼” nut driver to unfasten the screws on the small cover and the rear access panel. Set the cover and panel aside.
• Step 6: Unplug the lid switch’s wire connector. Refer to your user manual if necessary.
• Step 7: Remove the plastic retainer clip. Then, squeeze the two prongs on the wire harness retainer and push it down to release it.
• Step 8: Use the ¼” nut driver to remove the two screws securing the top panel.
• Step 9: Pull the washer’s top forward and lift it up until the tabs on the rear panel fit into the slots on the top.
• Step 10: Get the holding strap and attach the hooks to the washer’s main top and body.
• Step 11: Use the flathead screwdriver to pry the lid switch out. 
• Step 12: Remove the wire harnesses from the retaining clips. Then, pull the harness out and set it aside.
• Step 13: Get the new lid lock assembly and slide it into position until it is seated properly.
• Step 14: Insert the wire harness into the opening on the main top. Then, slip the wire under the retaining clips to keep it secure.
• Step 15: Push the wire harness retainer into the slot on the washer’s top until it snaps into place.
• Step 16: Unhook the holding straps. Close the washer’s top by simply pressing it down until it is secure.
• Step 17: Attach the retaining clip of the lid switch’s wire harness. Then, reconnect the wire to the control board.
• Step 18: Use the ¼” nut driver to reinstall the two screws that secure the top panel.
• Step 19: Reinstall the rear access panel and its screws. After, mount the small cover.
• Step 20: Reconnect the hoses and turn on the water supply.
• Step 21: Restore power to the washer. Run a test cycle to confirm that the door latches and the unit drains properly.

The control board is defective.

Once you’ve ruled out everything else, you should consider a faulty control board, especially if your washer is quite old.

This component is responsible for a wide range of functions in your washer. If it’s defective, it will cause the appliance to stop filling, draining, or spinning.

A faulty control board(Maytag Washer Control Panel Not Working) can no longer be repaired and is quite expensive to replace. Depending on your model, the replacement can cost as much as an entry-level unit, so you might as well get a new washer.

But if you aren’t ready to part ways with your washer, we’ll show you how to isolate the component to test it for continuity. Then, we’ll walk you through the steps to replace it.

What you’ll need:

• Pliers
• Multimeter
• ¼” nut driver
• Flathead screwdriver
• New main control board

Solution: First, isolate the control board and do a continuity test to confirm that it is defective. If there is no continuity, it’s defective and needs a replacement.

• Step 1: Disconnect your washer from its power source.
• Step 2: Turn off the water supply. Then, disconnect the hot and cold hoses and the drain hose from the washer.
• Step 3: Carefully pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel.
• Step 4: Remove the bolts on the panel using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 5: Pry open the front control panel housing using a flathead screwdriver
• Step 6: Disconnect the wire harness and set the control panel aside.
• Step 7: Detach the switch wire connectors on the control board, including the power wire. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the bracket and retainer.
• Step 8: Disconnect the air pressure tube.
• Step 9: Unfasten the screws mounting the control board using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 10: Pull out the washer’s center knob, then remove the control board.
• Step 11: Inspect the control board for burn marks and discoloration. If present, these are clear indications of damage.
• Step 12: Use a multimeter to check for continuity. 
• Step 13: Rotate the dial to the Continuity Test mode. Then, place the prongs on each side of the control board’s fuse.

A beep should indicate a well-functioning fuse and control board. But if you hear nothing, it’s time to replace the component or the washer itself.

To replace a Maytag top-load washer’s main control board, follow these steps:

• Step 1: Disconnect your washer from its power source.
• Step 2: Turn off the water supply, then disconnect the drain and inlet hoses from the washer.
• Step 3: Carefully pull the washer away from the wall to access the back panel.
• Step 4: Unfasten the bolts mounting the panel using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 5: Pry the front control panel housing open with a flathead screwdriver.
• Step 6: Unplug the wire harness and set the control panel aside.
• Step 7: Take a photo of the wires connected to the main control board. Refer to it during the reassembly process.
• Step 8: Pull out the switch wire connectors and power wire on the control board. Next, remove the bracket and retainer using a flathead screwdriver.
• Step 9: Disconnect the air pressure tube.
• Step 10: Remove the screws securing the control board using a ¼” nut driver.
• Step 11: Detach the center knob and remove the control board.
• Step 12: Get your new control board and transfer the wire retaining bracket from the old assembly to the new one.
• Step 13: Align the control board with the slots on the panel. 
• Step 14: Reinstall the screws securing the board and reattach the control knob.
• Step 15: Use your reference photo to reconnect all the wires to the correct terminals on the control board.
• Step 16: Secure the wires on the bracket and retainer. Then, reattach the air pressure tube.
• Step 17: Align the control panel with the rear panel and push down until it snaps into place.
• Step 18: Reinstall the screws on the rear panel.
• Step 19: Reconnect all the hoses.
• Step 20: Turn on the water supply and restore power to the washer.

Frequently Asked Questions

What safety precautions should I take when fixing my washer?

Before performing any repairs or maintenance, unplug your washer’s power cord or turn it off at the circuit breaker. If you are disassembling the washer, shut off the water supply to the washer, then disconnect the drain and inlet hoses. 

You can also tie the power cord and tape it to the side of the washer to prevent it from getting in the way. 

Is it cheaper to fix a washer or replace it?

In many cases, fixing a washer will be cheaper than having it replaced, especially if the error is covered by the warranty or you can troubleshoot it yourself.

Believe it or not, most issues you’ll encounter can be resolved with routine cleaning and maintenance. But if you have an older washer, you’re more likely to experience component failure, which will require you to replace the damaged part. 

Depending on the component, the cost can reach up to $300 or more, which is the same price as a new entry-level washer. In such cases, it will be more cost-effective to get a new washer than to deal with recurring issues.