When your laundry’s all ready to be washed inside the drum, the last thing you want to happen is for your appliance to inexplicably refuse to spin — alas, sometimes it’s not just your lucky day.
But don’t worry — we’ve been there, too, so we can assure you that the issue might not be as complex as you expect.
So before you book a visit to the nearest laundry shop, allow us to walk you through this issue first.
From cycle settings to parts repair, we’ve got everything you’ll need to get your Maytag washer spinning again!
Why Your Maytag Washer Isn’t Spinning
A Maytag washer that won’t spin suggests issues with your appliance’s drive belt or motor, or its door switch assembly. These parts could be worn out, damaged, or faulty.
Before checking these parts, however, ensure that your washer’s load is even with appropriate cycle settings.
As a general rule, before trying out any technical or mechanical troubleshooting, we advise double-checking that your appliance can close and open its door properly.
Maytag washers are designed with a safety feature that requires the unit’s door to be properly closed before it can start any operations. This means that unless the washer door is tightly latched, it won’t spin or start at all.
To guarantee that the appliance door can close all the way, look out for any clothes or other similar items that could be jammed near the door area.
We recommend placing your clothes a couple of inches away from the door to lessen the possibility of them catching on the rubber seal.
Moreover, make sure that your laundry load is evenly distributed inside the drum and that one side isn’t heavier than the other.
An uneven drum might have trouble spinning freely, so we recommend categorizing your load before starting a washing cycle.
Your user manual should have an elaborate guide to choosing the cycle that’s apt for your laundry load, but for a quick rundown of your options, here’s a brief overview:
Wash Cycle | Type of Load |
Normal Wash | Regular cotton, linen, sheet, or mixed garments with moderate to normal soiling |
Whites | White fabrics or garments with heavy soiling |
Cold Water Wash | Bright or dark-colored cotton, linens, casual items, mixed loads, or clothes with cold water stains |
Delicate | Lightly soiled sheer fabrics, lingerie, sweaters, blouses, pants, or anything that requires a “gentle” cycle according to the tag |
Rinse & Spin | Items that don’t need detergent, such as swimwear |
Quick Wash | Small loads of lightly soiled garments, ideally 2 to 4 items only |
Permanent Press | Wrinkle-free fabrics or items that wrinkle easily |
Heavy Duty | Fabrics or garments with heavy soiling that require intense cleaning |
Bedding | Larger items such as sheets, sleeping bags, small comforters, jackets, and small rugs |
Sanitize Wash | Clothes, bedding, and towels that require sanitization |
Deep Water Wash (For Top-load Washers Only) | Heavily soiled casual and mixed loads, like towels, jeans, and sturdy fabrics |
Each of these cycle settings uses configurations that are unique to the kind of fabric in your load, and as we’ve mentioned, choosing an inappropriate cycle might lead to difficulties in spinning the drum.
Here are some tips to ensure that you always have a balanced load inside the appliance:
- Make sure each load doesn’t exceed ¾ of the way of the drum to avoid overloading the washer.
- Keep a balanced quantity of similar-sized items if you’re opting for a mixed-load wash cycle. For top-load washers with an agitator, arrange large items around this part evenly.
- Pause the cycle if you notice the load becoming unbalanced at any point in the operation. Afterward, reposition the items evenly inside the drum before resuming.
On the other hand, if you’ve ruled out this possibility from being the root of this issue, then go right ahead and check the table we’ve prepared below.
There are plenty of other reasons why your Maytag washer isn’t spinning — from a broken drive belt to a defunct lid lock — and we’re here to go through them one by one with you!
Quick Tip:
• Maytag washer models have a control lock setting that prevents you from using any of the buttons on your control panel or touchpad once it’s activated. This is a safety measure specially included for households with children or pets that might accidentally compromise your cycle settings while you aren’t looking.
• If your Maytag washer isn’t spinning or starting a cycle at all, look for a lock icon on the display panel. If it’s lit up, this means that the control lock function is activated.
• There are two ways to deactivate the control lock mode depending on the type of Maytag washer you’re using:
Top-load Washer: Locate the control lock button and hold it down for 3 seconds or until the light on the lock icon disappears.
Front-Load Washer: Locate the control lock icon on the display panel and scroll up to unlock it.
Common Causes for Maytag Washers Not Spinning and How to Fix Them
Sometimes, your Maytag washer will send you error codes relating to this issue. They can help you narrow down the root of the problem faster.
But if your appliance isn’t giving you any signals, don’t worry — you can just go through the items on the table below!
Cause | Solution |
The door lock or switch assembly has failed. | • Unplug the appliance and turn off its water supply, then open the washer door. • Remove the metal clamp that holds the rubber seal in place and set it aside. • Pull back the part of the rubber seal nearest to the door lock, then release the mounting screws around it. • Once the screws are removed, pull the door lock assembly out and disconnect its wire connectors to remove it from the appliance. • Replace the old door lock assembly. |
The drive belt is worn out, loose, or damaged. | • Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. • Turn off the water supply to it as well. • Then, lay the appliance down on its front. Be sure to tape the lid or the door to prevent it from opening. • Once the washer is laid down, use a 5/16-inch nut driver to remove the shield to the drive motor. Afterward, remove the old drive belt and install a new one. |
The drive motor is faulty or damaged. | • Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. • Turn off the water supply to it as well. • Lay the appliance down on its front, then remove the shield to the drive motor using a 5/16-inch nut driver. • Locate the motor plug beside the pulleys and depress its locking tab to disconnect it. Then, move the wire harness out of the way. • Using a half-inch socket wrench, remove the bolts securing the drive motor in place. Afterward, pull the motor out and replace it with a new one. |
The washer drive hub kit has malfunctioned. | • Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. • Turn off the water supply to it as well. • Open the lid or door, and remove the fabric softener dispenser using a flat-blade screwdriver. • Remove the washer’s agitator by inserting the 7/16 in. socket and its extension onto the spin shaft to reach the agitator at its bottom. • Once the socket has latched, break it loose to remove the spin shaft. • Using a couple of hooks, lift the washer drive hub’s cover and set it aside. • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the drive hub retainer around the kit. Then, use a pair of pliers to remove it. • Using a Philipps screwdriver, unlatch the six screws around the drive hub kit. Use a putty knife to pry the component out. • Once the drive hub kit is removed, make sure to scrub down the area around it before installing a new one. |
The drain filter is clogged. | • Unplug the washer or cut its power at the circuit breaker. • Turn off its water supply as well. • Open the drain dispenser drawer by pushing down the right side tab and then pulling up the left side tab. • Place a small container underneath the drain pump filter to collect any excess water. • Release the drain hose and remove the plug to start draining the water from the pump filter into the drain. • If your container fills up at any point, simply pause the draining process to discard the water. • Repeat this until there is no more water left to drain. • Once all the water is drained, turn the knob on the filter counterclockwise and pull it out. • Clean the filter by removing large debris by hand. Rinse it thoroughly under running water. • Once the filter is clean, place it back in its housing and turn it clockwise to secure it. • Insert both of the dispenser drawers simultaneously and push them in until they snap in place. |
The drain pump has failed. | • Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. • Turn off the water supply to it as well. • Tilt the appliance down on its front. Place a tower underneath the machine to absorb any water that might leak. • Locate the drain pump above the drive motor. Then, use a flat-blade screwdriver to disconnect the plugs connected to this component. • Using a pair of pliers, loosen the clamps around the drain pump assembly, then pull the pump hose out. • Using a 5/16 in. nut driver, undo the three mounting screws around the pump. Afterward, pull the component out of the washer body. • Install your new drain pump. |
If this is your first time encountering this issue, you might be expecting techy or mechanical fixes to address the problem, but you’ll be surprised to know that you won’t need extra greasy hands for this at all!
All you need are some basic tools like a screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and maybe some extras we won’t forget to list down for you. You can do the rest of the troubleshooting yourself, and each method would only take you a couple of minutes.
But if you find yourself struggling with certain parts, don’t hesitate to call for service.
The door lock or switch assembly has failed.
Part of your Maytag washer’s safety measure is to hold operations until the control board — the part of your appliance that processes all of its functions — detects that the door is closed.
If you’ve already cleared out any items that might obstruct the appliance door from closing all the way, but the machine still detects an open door and won’t start any operation, then you might want to look into the switch assembly.
The switch assembly is a part of your appliance that sends the status of the door to the control board. It’s the one that determines whether the door is closed and the washer is now safe to start a cycle.
When this part fails or is defective, it can misread the door status and interfere with washing operations.
Meanwhile, for top-load washer models, the equivalent of this component is the lid lock. This is the part that makes the clicking sound you usually hear when you close the lid on the drum.
Once this part fails, you’ll notice the lid not producing its usual click.
Solution: A failed door switch assembly needs to be replaced. To do that in a front-load washer, follow these steps:
- Step 1: Unplug the appliance and turn off its water supply, then open the washer door. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the metal clamp that holds the rubber seal in place and set it aside.
- Step 2: Pull back the part of the rubber seal nearest to the door lock.
- Step 3: Using a t20 Torx screwdriver, release the mounting screws around the door lock.
- Step 4: Once the screws are removed, pull the door lock assembly out and disconnect its wire connectors to remove it completely from the appliance.
- Step 5: Inspect the lock for any physical damage, especially around the latch area. If you find any, replace the assembly.
You can also test this component for electrical continuity to ensure that it’s working properly. To do this, you will need a multimeter.
Set the device to the lowest ohms setting then touch the contacts to the door lock’s terminals.
The reading on the display should be between 50 to 150 ohms of resistance. Otherwise, it has no continuity and needs to be replaced.
- Step 6: To install a new door lock assembly, first hook the assembly’s mounting tabs in place to ensure that the component won’t rattle around.
Afterward, reconnect the wire connectors and place the assembly back into the slot. Secure it with the mounting screws.
Realign the rubber seal and carefully reposition the metal clamp over it. Ensure that the rubber seal is tightly fitted along the lip of the door.
This seal is important in keeping the door shut and preventing water from leaking out.
Meanwhile, replacing a front-load Maytag washer’s door switch isn’t largely different from replacing a top-load washer’s lid lock, although of course they’re located in different places.
If you have a top-load washer, here’s what you should do:
- Step 1: Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. Turn off the water supply to it as well.
- Step 2: Remove the appliance’s rear access panel by undoing the screws around it. Once all screws are removed, pull the access panel out.
- Step 3: From the rear access panel, locate the wires connected to the lid assembly and disconnect them.
- Step 4: Once you’ve disconnected the lid assembly wires, remove the screws securing the larger back panel in place.
There should be two horizontal slots above these screws. Once you’re done removing them, lift the top panel of the washer and lean it back until the unscrewed tabs fit into the horizontal slots like a hinge.
- Step 5: Open the lid of the appliance and support the panel with a makeshift strap or rope so that it stays open.
- Step 6: Using a flat-blade screwdriver, pry out the remaining locking tab on the top panel and release the lid lock assembly.
- Step 7: Afterward, install the new lid lock assembly and retrace your steps to reposition the appliance’s top and rear access panels back in place.
The drive belt is worn out, loose, or damaged.
Your Maytag washer’s drum is held up by a thin belt hooked around two to three pulleys. This belt supports the weight of the drum as it spins during a washing cycle.
Over time, this belt could wear down or loosen. When this happens, the washer drum would either spin with loud, thumping noises or would not spin at all.
Another culprit to a loose or damaged drive belt is frequent overloaded cycles. You should limit each laundry load to ¾ of the drum capacity to avoid overfilling it.
Solution: Loose drive belts can be wound and tightened again, although as a cautionary method, we recommend replacing them.
Meanwhile, if you find the belt frayed or damaged, it needs to be changed immediately.
The drive belt is typically located on the bottom of your Maytag washer, so you’ll need to lay the appliance on its front to access it.
Here’s what you need to do:
- Step 1: Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. Turn off the water supply to it as well.
Then, lay the appliance down on its front. Be sure to tape the lid or the door to prevent it from opening.
The machine is quite heavy, so we advise engaging someone else’s help to assist you.
We also recommend laying a towel for the machine so it doesn’t get scratched while you troubleshoot it.
- Step 2: Once the washer is laid down, you can now easily access its drive motor assembly. First, you’ll need to remove the shield to the drive motor using a 5/16-inch nut driver.
- Step 3: With the shield removed, you are now free to remove the belt.
Loose belts can come off easily, but if the part is still tightly attached to the pulleys, use your nut driver again to pry the component off.
- Step 4: Once the old drive belt is removed, install a new one by pulling it over the motor pulley (the smaller component) and then working it over to the transition pulley (the larger one).
Slowly turn the pulleys until the entire belt is fitted in place, just like how you would attach a bike chain.
Afterward, give the belt a few spins and make sure it’s centered on the pulleys. Then attach the shield you removed earlier and work your way back into turning your machine upright.
The drive motor assembly is faulty or damaged.
While your Maytag washer’s drive belt supports the weight of the drum as it spins, the responsibility of spinning the drum falls on the drive motor.
Through these spinning motions, the water inside the drum is regulated. Clothes are also tumbled in the load and redistributed to make sure that they’re agitated.
By doing so, the particles from impurities — such as oil, grease, and dirt — that come in contact with your detergent are suspended and slowly removed from the fabric’s surface.
Similar to a loose or damaged drive belt, a faulty or damaged drive motor can have trouble spinning the drum or will spin the drum slowly but loudly.
Solution: Access the drive motor on the bottom panel of your Maytag washer and replace it.
If you’ve inspected the drive belt before, you can just follow the steps in laying down the appliance on a towel and access the drive motor assembly underneath.
Otherwise, we recommend engaging another person for assistance (they don’t have to be a professional). When you’re ready, follow these steps:
- Step 1: Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. Turn off the water supply to it as well.
- Step 2: Lay the appliance down on its front. We also recommend laying a towel for the machine so it doesn’t get scratched while you troubleshoot it.
- Step 3: Once the washer is laid down, look under the machine and remove the shield to the drive motor using a 5/16-inch nut driver.
- Step 4: Set the shield cover aside and remove the drive belt. Use your nut driver to pry it off more easily.
- Step 5: Locate the motor plug beside the pulleys and depress its locking tab to disconnect it. Then, move the wire harness out of the way.
- Step 6: Using a half-inch socket wrench, remove the bolts securing the drive motor in place. Afterward, pull the motor out.
- Step 7: With the old drive motor removed, you can install a new one by inserting the new drive motor in place and securing it with the bolts.
Then, you can just retrace your steps backward into reinserting the drive motor assembly shield and putting the appliance back on its feet. Don’t forget to reconnect all the wire plugs you’ve disconnected!
The washer drive hub kit has malfunctioned.
Another part of your Maytag washer that makes spinning the drum possible is the washer drive hub kit. This part in particular ensures that the drum is connected to the spin shaft so that it can spin or stop freely.
A worn-out or damaged washer drive hub kit wouldn’t be able to latch onto the spin shaft properly, hence the appliance’s drum wouldn’t be able to spin at all.
Solution: A malfunctioning washer drive hub kit needs to be replaced, and its surrounding area needs to be cleaned.
Replacing this part is as easy as replacing the drive belt or the drive motor. It might be easier, in fact — you won’t even need to turn the appliance on its front!
You might need extra tools, though. To prepare you for the replacement, here’s a list of what tools you’ll need:
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Deep 7/16 in. socket and its long extension
- Socket wrench
- A couple of hooks
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Putty knife
- A pair of pliers
Afterward, follow these steps to replace the damaged washer drive hub kit:
- Step 1: Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. Turn off the water supply to it as well.
- Step 2: Open the lid and remove the fabric softener dispenser using a flat-blade screwdriver.
You can do this by tilting the drum to the side and placing the screwdriver into one of the grooves in the dispenser, then prying it up.
- Step 3: Remove the washer’s agitator by inserting the 7/16 in. socket and its extension onto the spin shaft and reaching the agitator at its bottom.
Once the socket has latched onto the agitator, break it loose to remove the spin shaft.
- Step 4: Using a couple of hooks, lift the washer drive hub’s cover and set it aside.
- Step 5: Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry out the drive hub retainer around the kit. Then, use a pair of pliers to remove it.
- Step 6: Using a Philipps screwdriver, unlatch the six screws around the drive hub kit. Afterward, use a putty knife to pry the component out.
Once the drive hub kit is removed, make sure to scrub down the area around it. It’s guaranteed to be dirty!
- Step 7: Once you’ve cleaned the area, you can now install the new drive hub kit by retracing your steps.
The drain filter is clogged.
Though the drum assembly is usually the main culprit to a Maytag washer that won’t spin properly, sometimes this issue can also be caused by a problem with the appliance’s draining system.
Similar to how your washer won’t start unless the door is closed, the appliance wouldn’t start another washing cycle if the water from the previous one hasn’t properly drained.
If you find your Maytag washer suddenly refusing to start a new cycle after it just completed one, it might be a good idea to check if anything’s blocking the drain filter and preventing water from exiting the appliance.
The drain filter can sometimes catch lint or other small items left in your clothes’ pockets. You might even find some socks in there!
Solution: The standard way to clean a Maytag washer’s drain pump filter is by doing the following:
- Step 1: Unplug your Maytag washer or cut its power at the circuit breaker. Turn off its water supply as well.
- Step 2: Open the drain dispenser drawer by pushing down the right side tab and then pulling up the left side tab.
- Step 3: Place a small container underneath the drain pump filter to collect any excess water.
- Step 4: Release the drain hose and remove the plug to start draining the water from the pump filter into the drain. If your container fills up at any point, simply pause the draining process to discard the water.
Repeat this until there is no more water left to drain.
- Step 5: Once all the water is drained, turn the knob on the filter counterclockwise and pull it out. Make sure you’ve got a towel or container underneath the filter in case it leaks.
- Step 6: Clean the filter by removing large debris by hand. Then, rinse it thoroughly under running water to clear smaller debris.
- Step 7: Once the filter is clean, place it back in its housing and turn it clockwise to secure it.
- Step 8: Insert both of the dispenser drawers simultaneously and push them in until they snap in place.
The drain pump has failed.
If your Maytag washer’s drain filter seems to be clear but it’s still finding it difficult to drain all the water inside the drum, check the drain pump.
The drain pump is chiefly responsible for pumping and expelling the water out of the drum. This is made possible by tiny propellers on the pump that spin to suck the water in and drain it out.
Similar to the drain filter, this component of your washer can catch stray items that can hinder the propellers from spinning freely.
Solution: A failed drain pump will require replacement.
Most Maytag washers have their drain pumps located on the bottom panel of the appliance, so troubleshooting this part will follow the same method as replacing the washer’s drive belt or motor.
You might need another person’s help to handle the weight of the appliance.
Here’s what you need to do:
- Step 1: Unplug the appliance or turn off its power at the circuit breaker. Turn off the water supply to it as well.
- Step 2: Tilt the appliance down on its front.
Make sure you lay down a towel underneath the machine so it doesn’t get scratched while you troubleshoot it, and also to absorb any water that might leak from the drain pump.
- Step 3: The drain pump is located above the drive motor assembly.
Use a flat-blade screwdriver to disconnect the plugs connected to this component.
- Step 4: Using a pair of pliers, loosen the clamps around the drain pump assembly, then pull the pump hose out.
- Step 5: Using a 5/16 in. nut driver, undo the three mounting screws around the pump. Afterward, pull the component out of the washer body.
- Step 6: Install your new drain pump by inserting it into the drain hose (the one on top of the pump) first, then securing the mounting screws back around it.
Afterward, reinsert the pump hose and secure its clamp back in place.
A Maytag washer that has difficulty spinning — or won’t spin at all — might often be a result of a mechanical error, but preventing it from happening again doesn’t even require a toolbox.
You can ensure you won’t be stuck with the same problem once more by being careful about your washing habits. Remember to always be mindful of your laundry load so you don’t overload and overwhelm your appliance.
Finally, keep in mind that the mechanical parts of your washer can wear down over time, which means the older your appliance gets, the likelier you are to encounter this issue again.
But if that happens, don’t worry, you’ve still got this guide!