Whirlpool dishwashers are in a league of their own and their high efficiency can understandably make you put your guard down. Unless it’s making rickety noises, everything is fine, right?
Well, sometimes it doesn’t hurt to check for any errors you’re not seeing. It’s similar to going to the doctor for a monthly check-up to ensure that you’re still as healthy as ever.
Likewise, there’s a special mode in your appliance that will allow you to run tests on it and ensure that all of its parts are a-okay.
Allow us to introduce your Whirlpool dishwasher’s diagnostic mode!
What Diagnostic Mode in a Whirlpool Dishwasher Means
The diagnostic mode in your Whirlpool dishwasher runs sensory checks on different parts of the appliance and detects any existing issues.
It can take up to 25 minutes in total. Once done, the appliance will signal you if it finds any errors.
Entering the diagnostic mode is running a series of checkups on your dishwasher to make sure that its internal components are functioning properly. We call this the diagnostic cycle.
During this time, the appliance cycles through its parts one by one and administers unique tests — referred to as sensory checks — on each of them.
To give you an idea of how these sensory checks work, here’s an overview of what’s done to some of the vital parts of your dishwasher:
- Water Valve: The appliance releases 3 liters of water into the tub, and water turbidity is measured. This checks the water valve, the flow meter, and the turbidity sensor.
- Wash Pump Heater: The appliance turns on its wash pump. After 10 seconds, the heater is also turned on and the temperature rises gradually.
You will hear a beep every time the temperature successfully rises by 3-5 degrees.
The test stops once the heater reaches 134.6°F (57°C).
- High Wash Pump Dispenser: The appliance activates its water pump for 8 seconds, then turns the dispenser on for 45 seconds.
- Pause: The appliance activates the pause button for at least 30 seconds.
- Drain Pump: The appliance turns the drain pump on for about 30 seconds.
But while the diagnostic mode can help you crack down on any issues you might not recognize, it’s not a necessary prerequisite to entering the diagnostic mode.
You absolutely can enter diagnostic mode even if your appliance even if most or all of its parts are still functioning well. After all, this mode is there to assure you that your Whirlpool dishwasher is in perfect condition.
Moreover, entering diagnostic mode isn’t at all complicated. It takes only an average of 3 steps — read for yourself below!
How to Enter Diagnostic Mode in Whirlpool Dishwasher
Entering your Whirlpool dishwasher’s diagnostic mode varies based on the model you’re using.
Most models need the appliance to be on Standby Mode. Afterward, just press any 3 keys (except for START, DELAY, or CYCLE) in a 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3 sequence with no more than 1 second between each press.
The standard way to enter a Whirlpool dishwasher’s diagnostic mode is to press three random buttons in a row for three sequences. This works for most Whirlpool models, but some other models might require a different method.
Overall, there are four different methods that you can try to enter the diagnostic mode, and some of them are similar in steps. To know for sure what kind of method your dishwasher would need, you’ll have to consult your user manual.
But as a quick overview, we rounded them up for you below:
Method 1: The Standard 1-2-3 Sequence
As briefly mentioned, most Whirlpool dishwashers use the same three-buttons-three-sequences method to enter their diagnostic mode.
If you’re unsure where to start troubleshooting your appliance, following these steps could be worth a try:
- Step 1: Ensure that your Whirlpool dishwasher is on Standby Mode and that the door is closed.
Standby Mode is activated when the appliance is powered on but isn’t running any cycles.
- Step 2: Select any three buttons on the display that aren’t the Start, Delay, or Cycle buttons.
Then, press the chosen buttons in a row with no more than 1 second between each press. Do this thrice until the LED on the panel lights up.
Note: There are certain models that adopt this 1-2-3 sequence but also require specific buttons to be pressed. In this scenario, the rest of the steps will stay the same and you only have to look out for certain buttons.
Here are a couple of models to note:
- Whirlpool Dishwasher Models WDT710PAHZ1 and WDF560SAFM2: Press Normal Wash and Heat Dry in a 1-2-1-2 sequence three times.
- Whirlpool Dishwasher Model WDT720PADM2: Press the Normal Wash and Heat Dry buttons simultaneously twice.
- Step 3: Press Start to begin the diagnostic cycle.
Your dishwasher will perform sensor checks on various parts of the appliance for anything that might be wrong. Some sensor checks might require two cycles.
If you wish to skip testing a certain setting or part, simply press the Start/Resume button.
The entire diagnostic cycle, without skipping any steps, would last for an average of 25 minutes.
If there are no errors in your dishwasher, the LED lights will stay on for about 5 more seconds after the diagnostic cycle ends. Otherwise, the display will flash error codes.
Quick Tip:
Some models might require you to pull the door open before entering the diagnostic mode, and then close the door again while you’re pressing the buttons in a sequence. Be sure to consult your user manual for special instructions like this.
One thing’s for sure, though: your Whirlpool dishwasher won’t start its diagnostic cycle unless the door is properly closed!
Method 2: The Start/Pause + On/Off Buttons
While the previous method allows you to enter diagnostic mode immediately while the appliance is on Standby Mode, this particular method needs you to reset your dishwasher first.
If the above method doesn’t work out for you, try the following:
- Step 1: Turn the appliance off. Ensure that none of the LEDs are lit.
Afterward, unplug your Whirlpool dishwasher from its power source for a few seconds.
- Step 2: Plug the appliance back in and leave the door open.
Then, within 60 seconds of reconnecting the power, quickly press and hold the On/Off and Start/Pause buttons.
If the attempt is successful, all the LEDs on the panel should light up.
- Step 3: Close the door and wait for the appliance to run the diagnostic cycle.
Method 3: The Cycles + Start/Cancel Buttons
This third method mirrors the previous one, except it uses different buttons. If the first method doesn’t work on your Whirlpool dishwasher and your appliance doesn’t have the labels required to perform the second method, try this one instead!
Here’s what you need to do:
- Step 1: Turn the appliance off and make sure that none of the LEDs are lit. Then, unplug the dishwasher.
- Step 2: Plug the appliance back in and leave the door open.
Within 60 seconds of reconnecting the power, quickly press and hold the Cycles and Start/Cancel buttons.
The LEDs on the panel should light up to signal that the appliance has entered diagnostic mode.
- Step 3: Close the door and wait for the diagnostic cycle to begin.
Method 4: The Rinse + Start Buttons
This last method also makes use of the same unplug-replug-leave the door open method, but for cases where your dishwasher’s Start, Cycles, or Power buttons don’t do the trick.
Here’s how to do it:
- Step 1: Turn the appliance off and ensure that none of the LEDs are lit. Afterward, unplug your dishwasher for a handful of seconds.
- Step 2: Plug the appliance back in and leave the door open.
Then, within 60 seconds of reconnecting the power, quickly press and hold the Rinse and Start buttons simultaneously.
Once the appliance enters diagnostic mode, all the LEDs on the panel will light up.
- Step 3: Close the door and wait for the appliance to begin its diagnostic cycle.
As we’ve previously mentioned, diagnostic cycles typically take up to 25 minutes to finish. During that time, the appliance goes through all the parts of the dishwasher to determine any errors.
As such, you might run into one or more error codes. You can only address these errors once the entire diagnostic cycle is finished.
Depending on the part being diagnosed, the sensor checks can last from a couple of seconds to more than a minute.
Furthermore, some parts need to be checked twice. The good news is that you can go ahead and skip some of these parts by pressing the Start button.
Once the diagnostic cycle ends, your Whirlpool dishwasher will signal you with a long beeping sound. Afterward, it will display any error codes it found during the diagnosis.
Now, if you’re wondering how to read error codes, look no further than this article! We’ve prepared a quick guide below to help you decipher and address the most common error codes you’ll encounter after a diagnosis cycle.
Quick Tip:
To exit your Whirlpool dishwasher’s diagnostic mode, simply unplug the appliance.
When the diagnostic mode is activated, the Start and On/Off buttons are typically repurposed skip buttons instead, so simply pressing or holding them down won’t be enough to stop the diagnostic cycle.
How to Read Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes
Whirlpool dishwasher error codes commonly appear as a combination of F# and E#. The number next to F indicates which part of the appliance is experiencing the error, while the number next to E indicates the nature of the error.
You can read more about these error code combinations in the table below:
Error Code | Type of Error | Error Description |
F1 | Control | The main electronic control board has run into a relay error or has a corrupted memory. |
F2 | User Interface | The user interface panel (display control panel) has a stuck key or is unable to communicate with the main electronic control board. |
F3 | Thermistor/Turbidity Sensor | The appliance’s thermistor or turbidity sensor is stuck open, has shorted, or cannot be calibrated. |
F4 | Wash Motor | The wash motor is not running. |
F5 | Door Switch | The appliance’s door is either stuck open or closed. |
F6 | Inlet Water | There is a fault in the appliance’s water inlet valve, water pump, float switch, or flow meter. |
F7 | Heating | The appliance is either getting no heat or the heater is stuck open. |
F8 | Draining | The appliance might be stuck in the draining process, is not draining, or is encountering a mechanical fault in its draining pump. |
F9 | Diverter | The appliance’s diverter motor is encountering a mechanical failure or the diverter disk is missing. |
F10 | Others | The appliance is experiencing an error with either the drying fan or the dispenser. |
Quick Tip:
If your dishwasher model doesn’t display error codes as F#E# but as #-# instead, don’t worry!
The same reading still applies: the first number indicates which part of the appliance is experiencing the error, and the second number specifies the nature of the error.
F1 Errors
When your Whirlpool dishwasher flashes an error code that begins with F1, this indicates an issue with the unit’s main electronic control board.
A dishwasher’s control board functions as the ‘brain’ of the unit. It processes various commands and settings at a time and keeps the appliance working.
As such, a control board is built to last for a long time and endure most physical forces that would otherwise cause damage to other parts of the appliance.
When you encounter a control board-related error, it’s likely a technical issue, such as a glitch, incompatible software, or a damaged memory.
In rare cases, this error could also be caused by electrical issues such as melted wire connections or a burnt-out circuit.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F1E1 | Pilot Stuck On | The appliance’s K2 pilot is stuck closed. | Take the appliance to a service center and have the control board replaced. |
F2 | Control Software Issue | The appliance’s control board has a corrupted memory or the LED lights on the display are stuck on (incompatible software). | Take the appliance to a service center and have the control board replaced. |
F2 Errors
F2 errors point to a fault in the user interface (UI) panel or the display panel. This is the part of your appliance that carries the buttons that let you input your desired settings.
While the main control board processes commands from different parts of the appliance, the user interface panel is responsible for sending out some of those commands.
As such, this component often exchanges communications directly with the main electronic control board. Troubleshooting one could lead you to troubleshooting the other as well.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F2E1 | Stuck Keys | One or more keys on the display panel are stuck and unresponsive. | Unplug the dishwasher and replace the user interface panel. |
F2E2 | No Response from UI | The user interface panel has lost connection with the main control board. | Restart the dishwasher by cutting it off at its power source or restarting it at its circuit breaker for 60 seconds.If the error doesn’t clear out, replace the user interface panel. |
F3 Errors
Your Whirlpool dishwasher often uses hot water in its cycles for more efficient cleaning. Of course, this doesn’t necessarily mean that you need to heat some water yourself for your dishwasher to use.
In fact, you don’t have to do that at all — your dishwasher has its own built-in heater that can warm the incoming water in no time.
This built-in heater also comes with a thermistor, a component that monitors the water’s temperature and ensures that it doesn’t overheat.
Aside from the thermistor, your dishwasher also comes with a turbidity sensor (OWI) that measures the clarity of the water being used in the appliance and protects it from using dirty, murky water.
When any sort of damage falls on these two parts, your Whirlpool dishwasher will send you an F3 error.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F3E1 | Open Thermistor | The appliance’s thermistor is stuck open and hence might be giving out wrong signals. Water might either be too hot or not heating at all. | Unplug the dishwasher and replace the thermistor. |
F3E2 | Shorted Thermistor | The appliance’s thermistor has short-circuited and is no longer functional. | Unplug the dishwasher and replace the thermistor. |
F3E3 | Failed Calibration | The appliance’s thermistor has failed its calibration. This could be because the thermistor has already failed or because the drain hose valve isn’t sealing. | Check the dishwasher for dirty water flowing back into the tub after draining.If there aren’t any, the thermistor needs to be replaced.If there are any, replace the drain hose and install it as high as possible. |
F4 Errors
Have you ever noticed the spray arms at the bottom of your dishwasher and wondered how they worked? They don’t move on their own, you know.
The spray arms are typically powered by a wash motor and a circulation pump, both of which are responsible for making sure that the arms have enough water in them to clean everything inside the tub.
Furthermore, the wash motor is the one that pushes the spray arm and keeps it rotating. It also ensures that water is spraying high and far enough to reach every corner and row of the tub.
When you receive F4 error codes, you might notice that some dishes in your load aren’t getting cleaned well because the spray arms are having trouble reaching them.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F4E3 | Wash Motor Not Running | The appliance’s wash motor has failed, either due to a loose wire connection or a failed circuit. | Unplug the dishwasher and replace the wash motor. |
F5 Errors
You might not think much of your dishwasher door, but Whirlpool appliances have a safety feature that pauses any kind of operation when the door is left open.
This is why, before starting any other operation, your user manual would often remind you to keep the door closed.
The part of your dishwasher that’s responsible for reading whether the door is open or closed — and then signaling the control board when the appliance is ready for action — is the door switch.
Sometimes leaving the door open is an honest mistake you can make, but when the door switch fails, it doesn’t matter whether you’ve closed that door five times already — the appliance will keep detecting it incorrectly and your dishwasher won’t start!
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F5E1 | Door Stuck Open | The appliance’s door switch is detecting that the door is still open. This could either be because the door was not latched within 4 seconds of pressing the Start button, or because the door switch has failed. | Inspect the door for any items that might be hindering it from closing. If there are none, try opening the door and quickly closing it again. If the appliance still doesn’t begin a cycle when you press the Start button, replace the door switch. |
F5E2 | Door Stuck Closed | The appliance’s door switch is detecting that the door cannot be opened. | Unplug the dishwasher and replace the door switch. |
F6 Errors
One of the most crucial parts of your Whirlpool dishwasher is its inlet water valve, which is the part that’s responsible for regulating the appliance’s incoming water supply.
Several issues can happen when this part fails, such as leaks inside and outside the appliance, shortage of water flowing into the dishwasher tub, or even water and suds failing to drain from the tub.
Inlet valve-related errors are indicated with F6 codes. When you get these kinds of codes, you’re likely to deal with other parts of the inlet valve assembly as well, such as the float switch, the flow meter, the drain hose, and other similar components.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F6E1 | Low/No Water | The dishwasher isn’t receiving enough water either because of a fault in the water inlet valve, a clogging in its hose, or an overcrowded tub. | Inspect the water supply line for any clogging that needs to be cleared. Do not overfill the tub with dishes, and make sure that each item is sparsely placed to allow water and suds to reach them. Inspect the water inlet valve for any damages and replace it if necessary. |
F6E2 | Faulty Fill Valve | There is a loose connection or an open fuse around the appliance’s fill valve. | Unplug the dishwasher and inspect the fill valve for any damages. Replace it if necessary. |
F6E3 | Suds/Air in Pump | There are too many suds inside the tub. | Allow the unit to be filled with water for 1 minute. Check the tub after draining if all of the suds have been drained. Consult your user manual for types of detergent that are compatible with your dishwasher model. Only use the kinds that your user manual recommends. |
F6E4 | Float Switch Open | The appliance’s overfill switch is detecting an overfilled tub. | Inspect the float assembly for any stray debris. Ensure that the switch is not stuck. If there is any kind of damage to the switch, replace it immediately. Also, check the drain hose for any backflow or other damages. If you’re replacing a damaged hose, make sure to install the new one as high as possible to avoid backflow. |
F6E7 | Faulty Flow Meter | The appliance’s flow meter is damaged. | Unplug the dishwasher and check the connections around the flow meter. Make sure they are tightly secure and are not damaged. Inspect the flow meter for any damages. Replace it if necessary. |
F6E8 | Regeneration Solenoid (Regen) Valve Electrical Problem | The appliance’s regen valve has a loose connection or an open fuse. | Unplug the dishwasher and inspect the regen valve for any corroded or loose wires and other damages. Replace it if necessary. |
F7 Errors
While your Whirlpool dishwasher’s thermistor is responsible for monitoring the water temperature, the duty of actually heating the incoming water supply falls to the heater assembly.
The heater assembly features a heating element that turns on or off in response to the control board’s signals.
This heating element is independent of the thermistor. In other words, when the thermistor fails, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the heating element is also broken.
Similarly, when the heating element malfunctions, this doesn’t automatically mean that the thermistor has been affected.
Your Whirlpool dishwasher differentiates between the two by sending you F3 error codes to identify an issue with the thermistor, and F7 error codes to indicate problems with the main heating element.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F7E1 | No Heat | There is an open connection in the heating element’s circuit. This could also be caused by a glitch when the heater is disabled but the washing cycle is still in operation. | Reset the appliance to clear out the glitches. Unplug it from its power or turn it off at its circuit breaker for at least 60 seconds, then turn it on again. If the glitch comes back, unplug the appliance again and inspect the heater for any damages. Replace it if necessary. |
F7E2 | Heater Stuck On | The heater drive has overheated or is faulty. | Unplug the appliance and replace the heater. |
F8 Errors
F8 errors are one of the more straightforward error codes you’ll encounter: they simply mean that your Whirlpool dishwasher is currently unable to drain itself!
The usual culprits for these types of errors are either an obstruction on the drain impeller — typically because of finer debris that passes the dishwasher’s filter — or a faulty drain motor.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F8E1 | Slow Drain | The drain hose or drain impeller is clogged. The drain impeller might also be damaged. | Inspect the drain hose or impeller for any clogging that needs clearing out. If either of them is damaged, replace it. |
F8E2 | Drain Motor Electrical Problem | The appliance’s drain motor has an open fuse or a loose connection in its wiring. | Unplug the appliance and inspect the drain motor for any damages, loose connections, or open fuse. Replace the drain motor if necessary. |
F8E3 | Drain Stuck On | The appliance’s drain motor circuit has failed. | Unplug the dishwasher and replace the drain motor. |
F9 Errors
F9 errors point to an issue with your Whirlpool dishwasher’s diverter. The diverter is a component that’s responsible for directing the water supply into the spray arms below the tub.
Similar to F4 errors, F9 errors are typically accompanied by less water traveling through the appliance’s spray arms leaving some of your dishes uncleaned.
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F9E1 | Diverter Can’t Find Position | The wires around the diverter have corroded or gone loose. This could also be caused by a misshapen diverter disk. | Check if the appliance’s spray arm and diverter are properly aligned. Inspect if the diverter can spin properly. If the diverter disk is misshapen or if the diverter has trouble spinning, replace them. |
F9E2 | Diverter Stuck On | The diverter drive circuit has failed. | Unplug the appliance and replace the diverter motor. |
F9E3 | Diverter Disk Missing | The appliance is detecting that the diverter disk is missing. | Unplug the dishwasher and remove the spray arm. Ensure that the diverter disk is properly installed. If the diverter disk is misshapen or physically damaged, replace it. |
F10 Errors
F10 errors are for other parts that don’t fall under the umbrella of previous errors.
These parts include the dispenser — the part responsible for lodging soap during a washing cycle — and the drying fan — the part responsible for removing moisture from your dishes during the drying cycle.
Since F10 errors point to components of your Whirlpool dishwasher that are significantly different from each other, you have to be extra careful in reading them.
Luckily, they only point to these two other parts. Check them out below:
Error Code | Nature of Error | Error Description | Common Solutions |
F10E1 | Dispenser Electrical Problem | The dispenser circuit has an open fuse or has completely failed. This usually results in less or no soap during washing cycles. | Unplug the dishwasher and inspect the dispenser solenoid for any obstructions or loose connections. If the dispenser is physically damaged, replace it. |
F10E3 | Drying Fan Error | The wires around the drying fan are loose or damaged. The fan drive circuit might also have failed. This usually results in dishes not drying. | Unplug the appliance and inspect the fan and its motor for loose connections, corroded wires, or any physical damage. If there are any physical damages or corrosion, replace the fan or its motor. |
It’s not uncommon for our dishwashers to look fine on the outside but then encounter errors in parts that aren’t immediately visible.
But that’s what your Whirlpool dishwasher’s diagnostic mode is for. This special feature will help you narrow down anything that might be wrong with your appliance.
Another good thing about it is that it’s doable anytime; no need to worry about specific requirements like a recently cleaned tub or a certain number of washing cycles.
All you really need is to clear out the appliance for your safety and close the door — and voila! You’re all set to enter diagnostic mode!
Plus, you don’t have to have any present errors to activate it. If anything, the diagnostic mode primarily exists to set your mind at ease that all is well with your appliance.
It’ll be ideal to get no error codes after the diagnostic cycle, but in case you do, we hope this guide has provided you with all the information you need to address whatever code you might encounter.
As a final tip, our team encourages you to perform diagnostics on your dishwasher every month as part of its maintenance.